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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 4:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 05, 2003 8:13 am
Posts: 36
Anders,

Thanks for the details! With that, I'm not sure how we could possibly go wrong. 8) (I've been wrangled into helping him -- two people who don't know what they're doing is definately more fun than one.)

-Mike

_________________
2003 Mazda Protege5 (TheCheat)
2003 Subaru Impreza WRX (the wife's car, which she lets me race)


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 Post subject: Moving Battery in A1 VW
PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2004 10:18 am 
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Groovy, baby!

Joined: Wed Aug 27, 2003 5:14 pm
Posts: 385
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
I did the same on my 84GTI when I ran it it DSP
(then had to move it back when I converted it to ITB)

Aside from the excellent advise Anders wrote I can only add the following:

1) mount in the spare tire well as close to the passanger side
as possible.
2) #2 welding cable will work but I used single "O" copper
braded because, as stated, the run ends up longer than you
think espically if you do a kill switch at the same time.
3) I purchased my wire and battery terminal lugs from Racers
Parts Wholesale. You need braded copper.
4) I purchase the crimping tool from Eastwood, you can borrow it.
5) I ran a single "o" ground from the neg bat to the rear shock
tower. Plus a #2 ground from one of the starter bolts
in common with the Trans ground point to the body.
6) Run a seperate 2 gage ground from the alternator housing
to the body (this is important as the mounts are rubber insulated)

Never had any problems never burned out a starter.
Motor turned over considerably faster and easier than when stock.

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Mark Vitacco
THSCC TT Chairman
mvitacco@bellsouth.net


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