I probably should have failed tech. . .

Ryan Holton · **Posted:** Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:07 am

BriceJohnson wrote:

bearing is on the way from Rock auto, I decided to go ahead and do it myself to learn a thing or two, since I'm probably gonna need to replace the other side before too long. Anybody know a place that will press the old bearing out and the new one in for cheap?

I guess you just start have to replacing things when a car hits 115,000 miles. I'm wondering what else I should plan on. I've already replaced one of the motor mounts, I'll probably need to do the others. Rear trailing arm bushings are on the list of things to do, probably control arm bushings and front sway bar bushings (rears were replaced w/ urethane fairly recently).

I'm gonna guess its a sealed unit and there is nothing to press out.

Got a pic?

BriceJohnson · **Joined:** Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:33 am **Posts:** 2230

it is a hub/bearing assembly, not just a bearing.

Ryan Holton · **Posted:** Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:47 am

WOW, looks like Mazda made a sealed hub that has to be pressed out. All the others I have messed with are simply unbolted.

Bummer

BriceJohnson · **Joined:** Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:33 am **Posts:** 2230

the rear unbolts, but the front unfortunately has to be pressed out

Scott Johnson · **Posted:** Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:20 am

what is the function of 9YA02-1083D. Does it retain the axle (not shown) to the hub?

I just don't like the idea of the hub being held in by an interference fit.

MikeWhitney · **Joined:** Wed Aug 20, 2003 9:15 pm **Posts:** 4724

Ryan Holton wrote:

WOW, looks like Mazda made a sealed hub that has to be pressed out. All the others I have messed with are simply unbolted.

Bummer

Also makes a challenge for pressing, since the press frame would have to be wide enough to clear the entire hub face.

I have done similar hub swaps in the past just using a BFH and a block of wood. Brice what does the shop manual say about this? And what's the word on the forums about the best way to do it?

BriceJohnson · **Joined:** Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:33 am **Posts:** 2230

shop manual of course says "use special service tool # blah". Here is a copy of a TSB that involves wheel bearing replacement. It also calls for some sort of adhesive to be used in the process?

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pd ... -1746b.pdf

RobLupella · **Posted:** Thu Oct 01, 2009 12:57 pm

BriceJohnson wrote:

shop manual of course says "use special service tool # blah". Here is a copy of a TSB that involves wheel bearing replacement. It also calls for some sort of adhesive to be used in the process?

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pd ... -1746b.pdf

Hmmm a glue on part. I have some Gorilla glue at home :lol:

BriceJohnson · **Joined:** Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:33 am **Posts:** 2230

So, after taking everything apart, it looks like a failing control arm bushing is responsible for the wheel play and noise, not the wheel bearing. Its got a crack in it, not huge, but this makes more sense. The noise I heard definitely sounded rubbery, not like straight metal on metal, and it was louder in the wet than in the dry.

I've got a new control arm on the way. I thought about replacing just the bearing, but it looks like I damaged the lower ball joint grease boot while seperating it, so I figured it safest to just replace the whole thing (it was only $72 for a whole new control arm, including bushings and new ball joint).

Thanks everyone for your help.

THSCC Forums

I probably should have failed tech. . .

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