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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 8:30 am 
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Vincent Keene wrote:

When you install new pads the caliper piston(s) will be pushed further into the bore, thus rasing the fluid level in the reservoir. Adding more fluid would make no sense.


I knew that, but I didn't think about the low fluid level being an early indicator of brake pad nearing it's life. :wink: I don't feel smart at all right now :oops: :) - AB

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 8:40 am 
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That's only true if you happen to somehow find a pad that doesn't have an early warning indicating tab built-in. Do they even make pads without those anymore?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 11:30 am 
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Jason Mauldin wrote:
That's only true if you happen to somehow find a pad that doesn't have an early warning indicating tab built-in. Do they even make pads without those anymore?


I haven't seen a pad without one, thus that's what I've always used, plus, when you pull the wheels on your cars as often as we do, brake inspections happen all the time.

I just find it interesting, considering places like Jiffy Lube will "top all the fluids" with each oil change. - AB

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 11:35 am 
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None of my cars or my family's cars have the wear tabs.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 12:16 pm 
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Hawk Blacks are NOT the same thing as HPS.

Brake rotors do NOT physically warp. They are cast iron, which is quite brittle. Throw the thermal stress to it and it will crack, not deform.

There is no comparison what-so-ever between the metallurgy and physical properties of an aluminum alloy cylinder head and a cast iron rotor.

Now, as for which pad is better (ha!), I know which pads I'm NOT going to buy again: Hawk HPS. I am thoroughly unimpressed with them on the wife's Escape. The OE Textars were much better. HPS has less dust, but they also have less torque and feel. Autozone Wearevers are just as good, and a good bit cheaper.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 1:53 pm 
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I've got no complains about the HPS pads, I like them so far. They are easier to modulate than the stock pads, with just as much bite when you actually get on them hard. I've found trail braking to be a little easier to control.

Why were you putting HPS's on an escape anyways?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 2:12 pm 
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BriceJohnson wrote:
Why were you putting HPS's on an escape anyways?


The same reason why you put crossdrilled rotors on an Altima -- to be a boulevard pimp.

:wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 7:26 pm 
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Wes Eargle wrote:
BriceJohnson wrote:
Why were you putting HPS's on an escape anyways?


The same reason why you put crossdrilled rotors on an Altima -- to be a boulevard pimp.

:wink:



I see what you did there. :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 9:21 am 
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Quote:
Why were you putting HPS's on an escape anyways?


I'll throw it right back at you and say "Why wouldn't I?" They are, allegedly, all that and a bag of chips.

I got them for a fair price from Essex (right down the road from me), so...why not?

As it turned out the friction code on the OE pads was 'FF'. That means the friction at 200F was a level 'F', and the friction at 500-600F is also 'F'. BTW, did I mention the higher the letter, the higher the friction? D<E<F<G, and so on...

Anywho, the code on HPS is 'FE'. They do not have as good friction at the higher temps as the OE pads. And I can tell after about 2-3 stops.

Glad they're working well for you. That tells me whatever was on there previously was complete junk....


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 11:29 am 
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Aaron Buckley wrote:
I just find it interesting, considering places like Jiffy Lube will "top all the fluids" with each oil change. - AB


Aaron, your find may explain a little "ism" that we had with Mom's Escape not long ago. Every now and again, the brake warning light would come on, and I'd look, and think, "they seem okay to me." I guess the fluid was sloshing in the master cylinder, and tripping the sensor.

She eventually just took it to Oscar and had them replaced. The rears (drums) had started to make the squealing noise, and sure enough, were near gone.

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