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Well, went to get the car inspected today and safety-wise it passed. However it failed one of the OBDII tests. According to the printout, "MIL Commanded-On" failed and according to the printed explanation, "a fail indicates that che vehilcle's computer has detected a malfunction in one or more of the emission control components and that there are stored troble codes", but no trouble codes were printed out. There is a sheet that lists a bunch of "Bulletin #s". I don't think that these are the codes, but they may be.

Anyway, I turn to the collective knowledge of the club to see if anyone has seen this type of thing before and how to correct it or where a good place to go to get it corrected might be. The car is a 98 328is. Thanks in advance for your help.

Lee

Lee,

Is the SES/CEL light on, or has it been on recently? If it was me, I would read out and reset the OBDII codes, and see what happens. You have to drive (and do a number of cold starts I believe) before you have it retested after resetting it otherwise it will show not ready.

If you don't have a code reader, you're welcome to stop by, and we can see what's up. However, any Advance Auto or similar will usually read your codes for you (and I assume reset them for you). That should indicate what the potential problem is. I say potential since sometimes a code gets tripped that won't come back for a while if ever. My son's S4 tripped an O2 sensor related code about 10k miles ago, and it never came back after we reset it.

It's worth a try to simply reset it and then check it prior to retesting to see if any codes are present.

Chuck

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Current stable:
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The MIL commanded on failure means the check light is on. The state inspection machines do not look for induvidual codes, just system readys and MIL on. It usually takes a couple of days to clear enough not ready conditions to retest. For a '98 vehicle you can have 2 not readys and still be able to pass the test.

Like Chuck said read the codes. When I was inspecting most failures I saw were for O2 sensors and EGR problems. If your check light is still on then don't waste your retest. You get one retest for free. It has to be within 30 days.

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George Bright Member # 141
One of the youngest of the old farts.
Yes I voted against you joining the club.

Take this with a grain of salt but my OBD2 reader has a "command on" setting that lights the light. It would make sense that the inspection guys would test this to verify that the light would actually light if you had codes stored (think of it as a test for a dead or missing bulb) .

Does the light light when you turn the key in the ignition?

It wouldn't hurt to read the codes, if any. Be aware that if you clear stored codes you will need to drive a bit to get some of the tests to run. Depending on the year of the car you are allowed a different number of incomplete tests and still get a pass. IIRC NC calls them "readiness indicators"
Good luck,

Frank

Yea, what George says above ... he types quicker than I ...

Does AutoZone still read off your OBD II codes for free?

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Art McDonald
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Thanks guys for the input.

The check engine light comes on when i start the car and then goes off like it should. I went to AutoZone and they hooked their reader and it did not spit out any codes. I asked him to reset it anyway and he did. So no help there either really.

Could the brake pad wear sensor light be the culprit? I broke the rear sensor wire a while back and the light had been on for over a month. I replaced the sensor a week and a half ago, the light went out and I've driven it a few hundred miles since then... with cold starts at least twice a day... so, I'm thinking that would/could not be the problem, but it IS another one of those pesky dashboard lights.

Anyone have any other ideas? Or any suggestilons for a place to take it in Durham?

Thanks in advance again,

Lee

Check all of your connections to emmsions related stuff. I was getting a CEL for a loose MAF connection. Those giant screw connectors can come loose pretty easily.

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No, you're a towel!

I thought someone near Raleigh had the same software I do (autoenginuity), if not, you're welcome to take a drive down here. We can actually drive the car and get live readings, which will tell you exactly what shape things like your O2 sensor is in. Let us know what you come up with.

BTW, most shops charge $75 or more just to hook up to the computer.

Phil

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Phil... Now I miss the ITR and the M3!!!
1990 Honda Civic SI

Yes, and that's because the good readers cost $10,000+....


Sorry, Lee, can't help much with specifics to your problem, but I just went thru something with OBDII inspections today that someone may be interested in.

I have a '96 318ti, it's my daily driver, it's not pretty but it runs good, has AC and starts when I turn the key. I got a reminder letter a couple of months ago that my inspection had lapsed, and they gave me until Aug 01 to get it inspected, or face a $250 fine and they would block my vehicle registration. So, of course I waited until the last minute to do anything about it.....

I took the car in about 1.5 months ago to get inspected and the guy hooked it up and said it had a check engine light on- but the light on the dash was not lit. I took it home and pulled the cluster and found out that the check engine light bulb was blown- replaced that bulb and the light stayed lit when the car was started- great. Started checking codes and got one saying there was something wrong with the MAF- specifically a conflict of signals between the MAF and TPS. So, I replaced the TPS (cheaper) and reset the light- but it came back in about 100miles. I then replaced the MAF, and the rubber intake boot just for good measure. Light stayed out for ~150 miles- then came back, same code. Posted up on some online forums, and someone said they had the same problem and it was the O2 sensor- so I replaced that- code came back.

Basically, I replaced a bunch of stuff that didn't get rid of the code- but I still needed an inspection sticker by Aug 01. I read up about Waivers for cars that won't pass emissions inspection- and thought I would be eligible. So, I took off work early today and headed to DMV LIcense and THeft bureau on Avent Ferry Rd in Raleigh (the only place you can get a waiver in the area). I presented all my papers, and in inspector examined them for a while and came back and told me I needed ANOTHER inspection failure. I had 1 "not ready" inspection notice, where the light had just been reset but the monitors were not ready for inspection, then 1 actual rejection showing the reason and the code, plus a stack of receipts for the repair work (repairs must total $200 or more for OBD II cars to get a waiver). So, I ran over to Jiffy Lube on Western Blvd and got my car rejection- came back to DMV and got my waiver, good until next year.

BUT....then I had to go back to Jiffy lube to get my sticker......they had to run everything back thru the computer and figure out how to handle the waiver....but now I'm legal again.


This gives me time to get the problem properly fixed, and I'm determined to do so, before the last minute this time.




Bret.


EDIT: might want to call the guys at Shadetree Garage (847-3651) they're in NORTH Raleigh, off Old Creedmoor Rd, but not too far from some parts of Durham.......

I had Autozone and Phil Fauz read my codes and erase them. I checked around for loose connections and found none. I also just worried about not being about to pass inspection a lot. Then I took the car back for inspection and it passed with no problems. So, I am still not sure why I had a problem in the first place but it apparently wasn't there the day and hour when they checked again. But, I'm legal again, until next year.

It was most likley a readiness code that was the issue. Anything emissions related that trips the light, even if it goes back off does store a code and will trip the readiness feature. Its in place basically to prevent someone from having an emissons issue clearing the code and running to the inspection quickly before it comes on again.

They require a specific procedure and time to be 'reset' for the inspections computers not to fail the car.

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The readiness code mentioned earlier didn't take effect until later, I just can't remember what year, but it was after 1998.

Our 4Runner currently lights the check engine lamp after it rains. If we leave it alone for a couple of dry days, the problem goes away. So, it could be weather related.

Either way, I'm glad you got it inspected, now you've got a year to find the problem.

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Phil... Now I miss the ITR and the M3!!!
1990 Honda Civic SI