Should I replace my clutch?

jakepressley · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2008 8:17 am

ford t-5 trans
king cobra clutch

Signs and symptoms
-have to go ALL the way to the floor
-grinds going into reverse a bit....sometimes
-seems like there is less pedal since adjusting new clutch cable

BUT
It still upshifts and downshifts well at speed...although the heavy king cobra clutch towards the end of a session can feel like a dump truck clutch.

I'm wondering if I should run it, or replace it??????

George Bright · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2008 8:20 am

I would check your cable adjustment again. The new cable may have streached some since installation.

jakepressley · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2008 8:37 am

I have found that I have to keep after the adjustments, few times a year, as the cable does tend to stretch... I always carry a spare with me to the track...

I'm worried that I'll invest over three hundred dollars to loose a clutch the first day of a track weekend... I guess its the risk we all take, and possilby i'm worrying too much. I am finding myself more and more under the car at all hours of the night, fixing, inspecting, replacing and planning.

I have a very good friend who has worked on BMW racecars for many years and he thinks I should keep after the adjustment till it starts slipping.

BretLuter · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2008 8:49 am

jakepressley wrote:

I have found that I have to keep after the adjustments, few times a year, as the cable does tend to stretch... I always carry a spare with me to the track...

I'm worried that I'll invest over three hundred dollars to loose a clutch the first day of a track weekend... I guess its the risk we all take, and possilby i'm worrying too much. I am finding myself more and more under the car at all hours of the night, fixing, inspecting, replacing and planning.

I have a very good friend who has worked on BMW racecars for many years and he thinks I should keep after the adjustment till it starts slipping.

Yeah, the symptoms you describe do not indicate a worn out clutch, but one that is not fully disengaging.

I am sure that many people have paid many dollars getting their clutch replaced (unnecessarily) under similar circumstances- but in my experience, a worn out clutch will start slipping, or it will just give up all at once as the friction material on the clutch disc disintegrates and then you have nothing.

BTW, how old is the clutch??

jakepressley · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2008 9:06 am

my records show, from the previous owner that it was replaced sometime around 2000, i think. I think it was done when the motor was rebulit, around 35k miles ago.

I'm on the fence big time...

I could do it here at home, but what a pain in the ass to drop, support and reposition the transmission without a lift..

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2008 9:10 am

I don't know the details but have you checked the plastic adjuster mechanism for wear? Contact Carolina Mustang in Cary ASAP. They are open Sat AM. 467-2900 option 2

jakepressley · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2008 9:14 am

replaced the plastic quadrant with a JEGS billit peice. That was the weak point...

The pedal is so stiff i belive the clutch clable is the weak link now...

jimpastorius · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2008 9:16 am

jakepressley wrote:

my records show, from the previous owner that it was replaced sometime around 2000, i think. I think it was done when the motor was rebulit, around 35k miles ago.

I'm on the fence big time...

I could do it here at home, but what a pain in the ass to drop, support and reposition the transmission without a lift..

This is a normal wear and tear item. With that many miles on it, I would take the time to replace. I am not sure what kind of power you are putting down, so can not recommend one.

From experience, you are better to do it now than to lose track time and still having to do it.

Visit your new Harbor Freight in Durham and pick up one of their transmission jacks. You will thank yourself. Worth every penny.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2008 9:21 am

jakepressley wrote:

replaced the plastic quadrant with a JEGS billit peice. That was the weak point...

The pedal is so stiff i belive the clutch clable is the weak link now...

It has been a looong time since I wore out a clutch, but I thing getting STIFF is a sign of wear. FYI, unless you have tons of power and/or do lots of clutch slipping drag type starts, a stock level clutch lasts a loooong time. FYI I believe that only the Ford cables can be trusted.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2008 10:04 am

Also, keep in mind that a clutch is more likely to slip in 4th and 5th gear at full throttle and high revs than in the lower gears. You may not have slipping in hard around town driving but it is hard to simulate track speeds in a Mustang and keep your license. :lol:

jakepressley · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:14 am

just talked to my BMW buddie and I'm going to be putting her up on the lift before the may event at VIR..

I'm thinking stock application but open to suggestions....my estimated power HP possibly 300??

Arthur McDonald · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 1:54 am **Posts:** 2052

DickRasmussen wrote:

jakepressley wrote:

It has been a looong time since I wore out a clutch, but I thing getting STIFF is a sign of wear.

Yes, a worn stock clutch will get progressively stiffer. However, the King Cobra clutch that Jake has (and I have) is stiff from day one. I think he was suggesting that the high pedal effort was causing the cable to stretch.

jakepressley · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2008 9:32 pm

Arthur McDonald wrote:

DickRasmussen wrote:

jakepressley wrote:

It has been a looong time since I wore out a clutch, but I thing getting STIFF is a sign of wear.

Yes, a worn stock clutch will get progressively stiffer. However, the King Cobra clutch that Jake has (and I have) is stiff from day one. I think he was suggesting that the high pedal effort was causing the cable to stretch.

ya Art, the King Cobra can be a work out on the left calf...

I opted to go with a stock application, keep it simple and cheep, I'm actually looking forward to an easier clutch application, its going to help my heel toeing for sure.

Its going in this week. I'll get some pictures, if there is anything worth showing.

MikeWhitney · **Joined:** Wed Aug 20, 2003 9:15 pm **Posts:** 4724

BretLuter wrote:

Yeah, the symptoms you describe do not indicate a worn out clutch, but one that is not fully disengaging.

Ditto - if the clutch was worn out it would be disengaging right at the top of pedal travel, not at the bottom.

Don't throw dollars at the wrong problem. Look at the linkage/cable/disengagement. If the clutch HOLDS fine it's good and would be a waste of money to replace.

If it's a cable, pull it out and replace or lube with a teflon-based lube like Triflow.

jakepressley · **Posted:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 4:25 am

its a brand new cable.... around 6 months old.

Its time to swap out. I was JUST able to get the car on the trailer yesterday...lots of grinding from 1st to reverse, getting it properly linned up, and this was after I took in the last of the slack in the cable. I'd rather throw a couple hundred for a new clutch than a thousand for a new t-5

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