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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 10:07 am 
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I had the same issue with my BMW MINI passenger window. It would fail in the same way (not go down) when it was hot outside. Recently it stopped working.
I finally took off the door panel to see about replacing the motor. I tried to put the window down while I had the panel off. I could hear the relay clicking at the motor but no worky. :idea: Well, an idea from the days of old popped into my head... I needed to bang on the motor. I found a heavy cold chiesel and rapped on the window motor a few times and voila, the window works like a champ now. :whoknows: :crossfingers:

I'm glad I didn't pay the several hundred bucks to fix it... yet.

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AutoX 2012 Nissan Leaf (Quietly changing the world)
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 10:14 am 
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ChrisSuich wrote:
I had the same issue with my BMW MINI passenger window. It would fail in the same way (not go down) when it was hot outside. Recently it stopped working.
I finally took off the door panel to see about replacing the motor. I tried to put the window down while I had the panel off. I could hear the relay clicking at the motor but no worky. :idea: Well, an idea from the days of old popped into my head... I needed to bang on the motor. I found a heavy cold chiesel and rapped on the window motor a few times and voila, the window works like a champ now. :whoknows: :crossfingers:

I'm glad I didn't pay the several hundred bucks to fix it... yet.


If that's the case, then it's likely a solenoid on the motor. This trick works for a while if your starter solenoid starts to crap out. - AB

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 10:15 am 
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My toter had the same problem with the motor that moved the slide-out in and out. Of course it stuck IN KANSAS with the slide-out in the OUT position. Talk about scared. But I whapped it a few times and it cranked it on in. There is a manual crank on those things, but boy, it looked like it would have been a huge bitch to get that done by hand. The motor went on in, but still didn't act quite right. I called my dealer when I got back who then got in touch with the manufacturer. Strangely they said that they've sold hundreds of those and NEVER had a problem with one of those motors. They didn't seem to want to fix this one, either, since it went to working. I demanded that they replace it under warranty, though, as I didn't want to get stuck with it out. I honestly think to move it by hand would be 30-45 minutes of hard cranking (that slide-out was 12' long and probably weighed a couple thousand pounds!). They did, and I never had any more trouble.

Anyway, often times those DC motors will just get crud stuck in between the brushes and armature and the rapping will knock it out and they're fine. But if it starts to happen again quickly, you have something a little more serious going on, unfortunately. If you see any little screw-like plugs for the brushes, it won't hurt to open them and pull the brushes out and inspect them. Post pics! :)


--Donnie


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 10:41 am 
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Aaron Buckley wrote:
If that's the case, then it's likely a solenoid on the motor. This trick works for a while if your starter solenoid starts to crap out. - AB


Do you even know what a solenoid is? I thought you pushed papers for a living or something? You, you, paper pusher!

Don't listen to Aaron. The issue is most likely a solenoid.

Jim


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 11:01 am 
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JamesFeinberg wrote:

Do you even know what a solenoid is? I thought you pushed papers for a living or something? You, you, paper pusher!

Don't listen to Aaron. The issue is most likely a solenoid.

Jim


My job at Wachovia requires me to make mock ups of solenoids for the ATM's out of paper :P - AB

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 11:11 am 
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Just call me Bo

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Aaron Buckley wrote:
My job at Wachovia requires me to make mock ups of solenoids for the ATM's out of paper - AB


Regardless, clearly that doesn't qualify you to justify Chris' "hammer trick" and provide a remote diagnosis. And you can take that to the bank!

Jim


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 11:12 am 
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Aaron Buckley wrote:
JamesFeinberg wrote:

Do you even know what a solenoid is? I thought you pushed papers for a living or something? You, you, paper pusher!

Don't listen to Aaron. The issue is most likely a solenoid.

Jim


My job at Wachovia requires me to make mock ups of solenoids for the ATM's out of paper :P - AB


Damnit, thats why my fees are sooooo high.

Also, your new touch screen ATM's suck big time. They arent touch screen as much as put your fist thru it screen.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 11:35 am 
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Ryan Holton wrote:
Aaron Buckley wrote:
JamesFeinberg wrote:

Do you even know what a solenoid is? I thought you pushed papers for a living or something? You, you, paper pusher!

Don't listen to Aaron. The issue is most likely a solenoid.

Jim


My job at Wachovia requires me to make mock ups of solenoids for the ATM's out of paper :P - AB


Damnit, thats why my fees are sooooo high.

Also, your new touch screen ATM's suck big time. They arent touch screen as much as put your fist thru it screen.


BB&T FTW!!!!!!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 1:35 pm 
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Aww, what a cute little car!
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NEW INFO

on the advice of some bimmerforums threads, i put the key in the door and turned it to lock and held...the window went up...so that rules out any mechanical failure right.

apparently there's something behind my glove box called a ZKE that may be failing. i guess that's the next thing to look at :cry: :cry:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 4:06 pm 
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Aww, what a cute little car!
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so all the bmw haters can rejoice.

apparently the issue is with a bad "zke" module (aka Basic Module)...it's $350 from the dealer and must be encoded to the car for another $98.

weeeee....fun!!!!! I still like the car though

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 6:45 pm 
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Chris Brown wrote:
so all the bmw haters can rejoice.

apparently the issue is with a bad "zke" module (aka Basic Module)...it's $350 from the dealer and must be encoded to the car for another $98.

weeeee....fun!!!!! I still like the car though


is that something that may have been removed during my recent gutting process? if it is behind the glove box in the mess that holds the computer it is still probably in my car. as i no longer have windows or central locking it might be for sale. check to see if it can be removed without issue and you can have mine if you like Chris. $100


BMW haters? in this club? must be an autoX thing.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 9:26 pm 
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Aww, what a cute little car!
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steve remchak wrote:
Chris Brown wrote:
so all the bmw haters can rejoice.

apparently the issue is with a bad "zke" module (aka Basic Module)...it's $350 from the dealer and must be encoded to the car for another $98.

weeeee....fun!!!!! I still like the car though


is that something that may have been removed during my recent gutting process? if it is behind the glove box in the mess that holds the computer it is still probably in my car. as i no longer have windows or central locking it might be for sale. check to see if it can be removed without issue and you can have mine if you like Chris. $100


BMW haters? in this club? must be an autoX thing.


it controls the windows, sunroof and door locks...that's it as far as i know. if you don't need any of that stuff, i'll definitley take it off ya.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 8:57 am 
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Chris Brown wrote:
apparently the issue is with a bad "zke" module...


Zke's dead baby, Zke's dead.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:51 am 
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Aww, what a cute little car!
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Richard Casto wrote:
Chris Brown wrote:
apparently the issue is with a bad "zke" module...


Zke's dead baby, Zke's dead.


good one

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 11:38 pm 
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I just checked. The manual winders in my VW work. Every time.

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