Price/Hours for Rotor and brake pad install

Carl Fisher · **Posted:** Wed May 09, 2007 11:27 am

Hmm, I'm using Hawk HP+ pads on the front of the Neon, and yes they squeal loudly, and they're fairly dusty (but not unusually so, in my experience). However, I find them to stop well even when cold, and I haven't had problems modulating them when hot- they were my street/autocross pad back when I autocrossed it.

edit: but let's not turn this into another brake pad thread- God knows we've got enough of them already.

RobLupella · **Posted:** Wed May 09, 2007 12:59 pm

AXXIS Ultimates - low dust stop good. Used them for street, AX and a track event with no problems

clinehall · **Posted:** Wed May 09, 2007 1:24 pm

Vincent Keene wrote:

Shawna Geyer wrote:

Thanks for all the advice, I am goin to upgrade to some nicer rotors and Hawks.

Nicer rotors? Like what? It's a steel disc. One is as "nice" as another. Unless you mean you want drilled and/or slotted rotors. If so don't waste your money on that crap.

If you plan to AX your Cobalt start saving money to replace front wheel bearings. If you want to learn how, just ask me. I'm somewhat of a self declared GM FWD wheel bearing expert.

I would imagine Vincent has replaced more bearings that 2 or 3 mr goodwrenches combined.

I agree with Vincent on the Rotors Napa $24 rotors are as good as any of that fancy crap. Save that money and spend it on tires or something else with more bang for the buck.

Gwen Habenicht · **Posted:** Wed May 09, 2007 3:50 pm

MikeWhitney wrote:

If you get to a level in autocross that you're PAX-competitive (top 20) then you can start considering pads with more aggresive initial bite.

clinehall wrote:

Save that money and spend it on tires or something else with more bang for the buck.

Just 1 girl's opinion, but-I'd listen to these guys. Spend your money on seat time, seat time, seat time. Go for a set of Azenis' if you want to get off your daily tires, but the best upgrade you can do for now is upgrade the "nut behind the wheel". Keep coming, keep racing! :wink:

George Bright · **Posted:** Wed May 09, 2007 5:33 pm

Carl Fisher wrote:

teach a man to fish and he

sits in a boat drinking beer all day.

BriceJohnson · **Joined:** Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:33 am **Posts:** 2230

+1 on napa rotors and spending your money elsewhere. Listen to these guys, they know the difference between bling and things that actually make you faster. . .

Wes Eargle · **Joined:** Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:47 am **Posts:** 3683

Where is a photograph of Anthony Hodges' rotors when you need it?

:lol:

Shawna Geyer · **Posted:** Wed May 09, 2007 9:28 pm

I am currently out on injury status with left wrist, i find out tommorrow if its broken or not:) Jebs hookin me up with the Azenis, yeah!, so while im bored at my desk, im surfin the net;)...
But im glad i came here first before gettin everything!

I meant to ask u Wes too, I want to get some of my coworkers out there on the 20th, and wanted to know if there were any flyers or info that i can give them?

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Thu May 10, 2007 7:42 am

MikeWhitney wrote:

Karl Shultz wrote:

This is not a mistake I'll be repeating. The "HPS" compound might be better, but personally I'm not taking that gamble. Not at over $200 to outfit the car.

Karl - for a data point - HPS is all I use on street/autox/rallyx cars now. Low dust, quiet, good initial bite, good torque. Highly recommended for your S2000. Got them on the M3, the Miata, and the Subaru.

Add my CM FF to the list of cars that Hawk HPS work with. Most autocross cars work very well with OEM or similar street pads. Usually the only reason to change is to adjust brake balance if the OEM balance isn't optimum with sticky tires, etc.

FYI the OEM Ford Akabono made "ceramic" pads work very well on my 2001 Mustang for the little bit of autocrossing I've done with it. Since "ceramic" pads are common these days as OEM the Cobalt may have them. Essentially no dust or noise plus long life (unless you track them of course). Our 1997 Mustang GT got about 100K miles on the first set of OEM "ceramic" pads (Akabono).

Dustin Fredrickson · **Posted:** Thu May 10, 2007 9:04 am

MikeWhitney wrote:

Karl Shultz wrote:

This is not a mistake I'll be repeating. The "HPS" compound might be better, but personally I'm not taking that gamble. Not at over $200 to outfit the car.

Karl - for a data point - HPS is all I use on street/autox/rallyx cars now. Low dust, quiet, good initial bite, good torque. Highly recommended for your S2000. Got them on the M3, the Miata, and the Subaru.

(brake hijack)
I've got the HPS's on my Miata as well, and I find them to be good. In fact, I ran them on the old Durango too, and they seemed to work pretty good even on that overweight, underbraked beast.
(/brake hijack)

Wes Eargle · **Joined:** Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:47 am **Posts:** 3683

Shawna Geyer wrote:

I meant to ask u Wes too, I want to get some of my coworkers out there on the 20th, and wanted to know if there were any flyers or info that i can give them?

All that I have is just the link from the main site.

Matt McGrain · **Posted:** Thu May 10, 2007 1:58 pm

RobLupella wrote:

AXXIS Ultimates - low dust stop good. Used them for street, AX and a track event with no problems

Rob, I'm installing a new set on the R today after work. I found a great company that sells these pads for about 60-70% of the regular cost because they are branded under the PBR (not a bad combination of letters IMO) label. PBR is the Australian company that actually makes the Axxis pads.

Check it out:

www.importrp.com

[/img]

Aaron Buckley · **Posted:** Thu May 10, 2007 2:10 pm

Matt McGrain wrote:

Rob, I'm installing a new set on the R today after work. I found a great company that sells these pads for about 60-70% of the regular cost because they are branded under the PBR (not a bad combination of letters IMO) label. PBR is the Australian company that actually makes the Axxis pads.

Check it out:

www.importrp.com

[/img]

Matt, that's a really nice find. Thanks for the info. - AB

Ashraf Farrag · **Posted:** Fri May 11, 2007 1:54 am

Be careful bedding in the PBR Ultimates if you use them on track. I found out the hard way (<sigh> as in, anyone got a red driver-side Miata fender for sale?) that they need to get REALLY hot to actually bed in and right before they bed in, they go away...like smoke pouring out the wheels go away and the car doesn't want to stop like it did the lap before that. The sessions after that, they seemed to stop fine. The Ultimates pad deposit and vibrate under braking and from what someone else told me, apparently that is normal. I'll give them another track event to see what they are really made of. :roll:

I may end up going back to the evil corrosive dust of Hawk Blue pads or try the HT-10's but it's hard to beat $37 + shipping. I also bought them from importrp. Pretty good vendor to deal with.

Regards,
--Ashraf

Matt McGrain · **Posted:** Fri May 11, 2007 9:33 am

Ashraf Farrag wrote:

Be careful bedding in the PBR Ultimates if you use them on track. I found out the hard way (<sigh> as in, anyone got a red driver-side Miata fender for sale?) that they need to get REALLY hot to actually bed in and right before they bed in, they go away...like smoke pouring out the wheels go away and the car doesn't want to stop like it did the lap before that. The sessions after that, they seemed to stop fine. The Ultimates pad deposit and vibrate under braking and from what someone else told me, apparently that is normal. I'll give them another track event to see what they are really made of. :roll:

I may end up going back to the evil corrosive dust of Hawk Blue pads or try the HT-10's but it's hard to beat $37 + shipping. I also bought them from importrp. Pretty good vendor to deal with.

Regards,
--Ashraf

Ashraf,

Could you shed some light on bedding the Ultimates in for daily driving & autocross? The box says to get up to 40 mph and moderately decelerate to 10 driving >1/4 miles between intervals, ten times.

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Price/Hours for Rotor and brake pad install

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