VATS Bypass System

jimpastorius · **Posted:** Thu Jan 18, 2007 11:35 pm

Does anyone know if there is a local place that sells VATS bypass systems. Long story....trying to eliminate issues.

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:23 am

jimpastorius wrote:

Does anyone know if there is a local place that sells VATS bypass systems. Long story....trying to eliminate issues.

VATS is pretty much a resistor of the correct value. IIRC, you match the resistor to value of the one on the key.

I used to install remote start systems and VATS was something that had to addressed from time to time.

jimpastorius · **Posted:** Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:42 am

My plan is pick up the 15 possible resistors at Radio Shack. I tested the key and it appears to be 7500 ohms. But never hurts to pick up others, jsut in case.

The car cranks but will not fire. My thought was the ignition switch to VATS. But after more research, it appears that it might be from the VATS module to the ECM. Whatever a circuit 229 is...

Richard Casto · **Posted:** Fri Jan 19, 2007 11:20 am

I don't know where this goes and how much room you may have, but you could just get a variable resistor (make sure it covers the right range)? Or if you don't have room or don't want to use the variable resistor as the perminant solution, just use it to find the value that works and then put in a fixed resistor that matches?

Graham Jagger · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 12:53 am **Posts:** 1718

If your key still ohms out at 7500 ohms then it is either dead on or way off the next possible choice. The 7500 ohm key has a swing of +/- 300ohms. I wouldn't bother with all 15 variations. Just the one above and below. You need to make 6000 ohms and 9500 ohms.

I had tons of fun with my daughters GrandAm with VATS or what they later called Passkey II. My C4 had VATS which is probably identical to your Camaro.

The GA used to set false codes all the time. We tried the key because it is easiest to do. Next is the key cylinder since it twists those 2 wires that feed the VATS decoder. Didn't fix it either. But in your case if you are going to bypass that then put the resistors right in front of the VATS module and get a regular GM blank key with no pellet made up. The problem we had on the GA ended up being a flaky ECM that has been replaced. The original key that came with the car still worked just fine and was well within spec.

I think I still have a circuit diagram at home that shows the VATS/Passkey and how to bypass it. It came from some vendor that sells keyless entry systems.

VATS/Passkey is just a big waste of money and electronics...

jimpastorius · **Posted:** Fri Jan 19, 2007 2:02 pm

Well, the car is cranking, but not firing. So the VATS is recognizing the key and sending the crank code to the ECM. It appears that VATS is not sending the fuel injector signal. That can be caused by grounding issues.

Since I replaced the steering wheel, pulled the interior, heater, ducting, etc....I may have pulled something loose.

Otherwise, it is going to be a long process of tracking down the problem. Probably have to start with the fuel pump and work my way up.

Graham Jagger · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 12:53 am **Posts:** 1718

Ok now the truth comes out. So it didn't break all by itself. It had help :wink:

If you haven't guessed already. Circuit 229 is the Fuel Enable circuit.

I know you can buy the VATS/Passkey defeat online. Maybe you could call one of the keyless entry installer places and see if they have one available. Or call Jeff over at CAM and see if he can hack up the PCM for you.

Good luck!

jimpastorius · **Posted:** Mon Jan 22, 2007 10:19 am

So it was not the VATS. It could not be so easy. It appears the fuel pump decided to give up the ghost. Not a big deal. Except to get the fuel pump out, you need to drop the tank. To drop the tank, the exhaust and rear axle have to come out.

You can imagine trying to do this at the track. So I have cut an access door above the sending unit. Then to pull the thing, you need to cut the fuel lines. For the pressure line, I will put a double flare in and some connectors.

Turns out it is more work than I wanted to do. But the upside, if the pump fails at the track, replacing it will take 15 minutes. Why in the world GM decided to skip allowing easy access to a submerged pump is beyond me.

Ryan Holton · **Posted:** Mon Jan 22, 2007 10:36 am

There should be a special place in hell for engineers who dont design an access to the fuel pump.

Chuck Frank · **Posted:** Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:19 pm

Ryan Holton wrote:

There should be a special place in hell for engineers who dont design an access to the fuel pump.

And the head of that area should be the guy who decided that you should have to lift the entire body off the chassis to change the sparkplugs on some of the new Ford trucks. :shock:

MartynWheeler · **Joined:** Mon Jan 02, 2006 9:30 pm **Posts:** 303

Chuck Frank wrote:

And the head of that area should be the guy who decided that you should have to lift the entire body off the chassis to change the sparkplugs on some of the new Ford trucks. :shock:

Wow, they still employ the guy who designed the '69 Mustang? Maybe it's his son, for the Mustang you just had to drop the motor.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Mon Jan 22, 2007 9:29 pm

MartynWheeler wrote:

Chuck Frank wrote:

And the head of that area should be the guy who decided that you should have to lift the entire body off the chassis to change the sparkplugs on some of the new Ford trucks. :shock:

Wow, they still employ the guy who designed the '69 Mustang? Maybe it's his son, for the Mustang you just had to drop the motor.

My 69 Mustang plugs were easy to change . . . It was a Windsor 351 4V. However, the 428 Cobra Jet plugs probably were difficult.

Dick

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