PhilFausz wrote:
So I've got a coolant leak and without giving it much thought, I've added 1-2 quarts of orange (not sure of name) coolant and distilled water (50/50 mix). I've since read that I should be using BMW's BLUE coolant. At $20 a gallon, is this stuff really worth it?
Also, the car has 90k on it. Should I replace anything while I'm replacing the coolant this weekend? Thermostat, coolant pump?
Thanks!
phil
BMW coolant is pretty cheap insurance for the "unknown". If you find another NAP free coolant, chances are it will cost about the same as the BMW stuff anyways. This post, quoted from another forum, pretty much sums up the results of my internet-research about coolant in BMWs:
Quote:
It's obviously best to use BMW's original coolant (BMW Anti Freeze). BMW's coolant is blue in color and contains no Nitrates, Amines or Phosphates (NAP free). BMW told me that it's real important that the coolant is NAP free. BMW's coolant do contain silicates (which prevents corrosion/pitting of aluminium parts).
BMW's coolant is based on Mono Ethylen Glycol (so are most other coolants for automotive use).
It seems that there are two kinds of coolant on the market. The blue or green NAP free G11 type, which contains silicates (properly similar to BMW Anti freeze). The other type is the red NAP free G12 (long life coolant), which is completely free of silicates (properly not suitable for BMW). VW and Audi specifies the G12 type for their never engine.
It's not a good idea mix coolants as the chemical additives might interact and disable each other (might even do damage in worst case).
Sounds like it's time for you to flush it. You asked for recommendations -- here is what I did w/ my M3 at 85k. This was all preventative. You could skip any/all of it but personally I don't like being stranded and I don't ever want to dump coolant on a track!
- New OEM radiator
- Thermostat
- Water pump
- New T-stat housing
- T-stat housing gasket (looks like a rubber band)
- BMW coolant
I sourced everything from BFI except the coolant which was from Leith for about $17 / gal IIRC. In the past I only bought BMW dealer water pumps after having a problems with OEM type stuff, but the E36 water pump from BFI (worldpac) looked fine so I used it. Al T-stat housing is a good idea, but the plastic will be fine for 100k. Check the drive belts, if there isn't any cracking don't worry about it. BMWs have great coolant hoses, no need to replace until at least 150k.
Oh yeah, and be careful with the radiator mounting brackets - they are tricky. You will also need a narrow 32mm wrench and preferrably a dead0blow hammer to knock it off -- left threads. If you have access to the "special tool" even better. Also be sure to have a Bentley manual and follow the instructions in there -- they are good.
Some may say "get an Al radiator", but the plastic ones are fine for 100k, so if you keep the car until 190k just plan to replace it again.
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