THSCC Forums

Wow, lot of things to address... I'll go through posts in order.

Yes, I'm getting analytical. I like to understand what's going on technically and how it relates to driving, and vice versa. tire pressures seem like a fairly fundamental thing on the technical side, and pretty much the only one that I need to figure out for myself. The driving needs a lot of work, but that's something I'll just keep working on. I'm still getting the feel of the Hoosiers, and I'd kind of like to be sure the pressures are in the ballpark so I can get used to the "right" feel.

I thought Firebird drivers had the same mullet, but they drink real beer like Miller High Life instead of the cheap stuff that Camaro drivers chug. Maybe I'm out of date.

The suspension is essentially a Strano setup on Sam's advice. His front anti-roll bar, Koni SA shocks set up to his baseline, alignment where he recommended. The only thing I haven't done that he suggested is put a new rear end on it -- he said Jim could tell me if mine is worn out. If by the end of the year I get to where I'm noticing wheelspin, I might change out the rear end over the winter, but it sure as heck isn't what's costing me 10 seconds.

I figure that most f-bodies are running the 710's now. I like the feel of the Hoosiers -- I did get them working at the TnT, and I liked the crisp response combined with the skating feel when they were working well. I think they'll suit my driving style well. But once I've learned to set up these correctly, I can use the same setup techniques for anything I run in the future. It's that first step I'm working on. You know, "teach a man to fish..." I guess I'll go the pyrometer route; simple enough to take measurements after each run, and if it's too much to think about on the day I can at least take the readings home to look at later. Pegasus shows a Longacre model with memory for ten sets of 12 readings for $299 -- is that as good a bet as any, or are there other favourites?

I'm glad I get the mullet over the rattail, Wes; good job I didn't get a Camaro after all. Personally I'm slowly growing out what's left into the ponytail stage I had a few years back.

These tyres were brand new at the TnT, heat cycled from Tirerack. I raced the Vee on takeoffs, but I figured if I was going to do r-comps I'd do it properly.

I guess I should have clarified: it's not so much time improvements I'm looking for with the pressures. My slow times are all driver, I have no illusions about that. What I do want to do, however, is to get them in the right ballpark so they're working properly. Then I'll know that the feel of the car is where it needs to be for me to get accustomed to r-comps.

This is not the WS6, no. This is the black one with the right headlight stuck in the up position(*). Eric, I know that FS is a hard class to drive well (which makes Jim all the more impressive, 10th PAX at Laurinburg from FS is pretty darned good), but autocrossing is about driving the cars you like, right? And yes, your advice does help.

Replaying the runs at Laurinburg shows I just was not coordinated on that day. Braking and turning were not working in synch, and as Vincent pointed out I was looking right in front of me, making for late turns and therefore too sharp turns. Objectively speaking, it was one of my worst performances in terms of technique that I can remember. I can identify tons of mistakes that I "never" make, and I'll have to work on next time to make sure I don't do it again. Guess it's tax time distracting me or something...

The cones, on the other hand, I could almost blame the car for that. I just put the Konis on between the TnT and this event, and the rear is a lot crisper and following the front much better. Of course, in reality I can blame the driver for that, not pushing hard enough to get the rear end moving.

(*) It's a broken pin. I am still wavering over finding a used headlamp bracket that has both pins intact, or doing the kludge of replacing the broken pin with a bolt through the supporting panel.

_________________
Martyn Wheeler
AXing Kit's '05 Mazda 3, #29 HStock
(when The Gonzo Symphonic allows)

Kinda makes you wonder why those guys with dead rear axles bother to get out of bed in the morning, doesn't it?

Martyn,
That longacre meter is the one we have. It works great, you can buzz around the car without even looking at it, then analyze the readings after as well as compare them. As everyone says, there is no exact pressure that works for everyone, even one the same car. If you "need" a number to start with, I'd try 48# all around with the O5s would be in the ballpark, bleed them down to the same pressure after each run. IMHO leave the car alone, concentrate on driving until you reach a plateau where you are running consistant times every run, then start adjusting. Until then you'll never know if you got quicker because of the adjustment to the car or to the nut behind the wheel. The other way to go is to have someone very experienced in your type car drive it and adjust it to where it's consistantly driveable for them, then you leave it alone and learn to drive it until you are consistant with it as well. That's the route I tend to use, I'm not experienced enough to determine just exactly what a car needs to make it better right out of the box. Once They set the car up I can experiment with what happens when I make small adjustment from there, and can return to their setup at any time. Taking any and all Evolution AX schools is a great way to get feedback on your driving and your car's setup from the best.

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SPIN or WIN!
there's no glory for going slow.

Just wanted to thank everyone for the wonderful, wonderful advice in this thread. I'll take it all to heart, and I have a lot to work on over the course of this year.

_________________
Martyn Wheeler
AXing Kit's '05 Mazda 3, #29 HStock
(when The Gonzo Symphonic allows)