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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 1:01 pm 
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Rich Anderson wrote:
Brian Herring wrote:
Rich Anderson wrote:
Brian Herring wrote:
Of course, you could just buy and STi, and 'dial the hack out'. ;D

- dow
Buying an STi would be dialing in the hack, not dialing it out!


No no no. It's got 'da knob! You can dial it all right out of there! :D

Of course, I like to leave mine set to 'full hack'.

It seems to work quite well like that.

- dow
Yes, yes, yes. More LSDs and traction gizmos = less driver = more hack! :P


Hmm... I believe that Lexus, Infinity (& Nissan), BMW, Porsche, Corvette... they all have standard versions of traction control, stablilty management, .... etc

Subaru gives you a mechanical LSD and a way to vary center differential lockup [not torque split.. grr.. i got that wrong in the original post] (which makes you less effective) with a static torque split and NO TSC,STM, AYC.... and we are 'hacks'?

Hmmm... interesting ;)

[on topic]Let us know if you need help 'changing' setup, or what direction you are thinking you want to go in.

We are more than willing to help you make changes :)

- dow


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 1:20 pm 
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You guys have it all wrong. You Subaru drivers need to be trying to get as much positive camber as you possibly can. Especially you Brian, positive camber is your friend, trust me. :wink: That was Hoppe's secret...


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 1:33 pm 
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Les Davis wrote:
You guys have it all wrong. You Subaru drivers need to be trying to get as much positive camber as you possibly can. Especially you Brian, positive camber is your friend, trust me. :wink: That was Hoppe's secret...


This comment DOES have some merit. I did run 0 camber in the rear (for 7/10ths of last year -- positive compared to stock), and my car did rotate better. :) It just didn't work to well once I got to 'real' spring rates. ;D

I still think being in KAs Forester and drag racing Mike Whitney's stock Miata to a DEAD EVEN race to 60 mph was the best demonstration of power/weight I have ever seen. With that said, I fear all miatas with Super Chargers. :D Those cars are scary fast (faster than my STi as well from a low speed roll - proven).

- dow


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 2:00 pm 
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The big thing to remember here is...

If you and Keith Casey (not using Tom Hoppe as an example because he's a hack :wink: ) were both driving an STX WRX, and you weren't consistently within a few tenths of his times (or faster), getting the exact "perfect" camber setting isn't going to make much difference. So for "set it and forget it" just go with -2.5ish front and stock rear.

But up those rear spring rates!

Also - I had the same experience as Brian with big bars and soft springs vs. stiff springs and small bars. I like the handling much better when the springs are doing the work. Can't really explain it precisely, it just "feels" better. :?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 2:09 pm 
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Keith Vail wrote:
MarcusMcRae wrote:
The best thing you could do for your set up is get rid of the kook's. They suck and then suck some more. If you are stuck with the kook's for a while they like lots of camber and lower pressures. They have soft side walls but don't respond well to higher pressures. Start with 32-34psi and -3 degrees camber in the front and adust the rear camber to how you like your car to rotate.


Marcus. I know you don't like your 'kooks but damn. I think they are a very good tire and an excellent value for the money. Nothing short of an r-comp will have the sidewall stiffness of the RE070s. I have my shaved 'kooks that get put on my WRX for autocross. I will be running stock shocks with STi springs and 26mm front Whiteline bar and 24mm rear Whiteline bar with MRT front camber plates. I am thinking -3 degrees camber front, -1.7 rear with zero toe all the way around.


Yeah, I am still convinced they suck. Shaved they will probably work better. I don't think they have as good lateral grip as the rt215 nor are they as predictable. With the prices the rt615 is going for on vulcan tire the only reason I could see running kook's is if you are sponsored by them.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 2:43 pm 
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MarcusMcRae wrote:
Keith Vail wrote:
MarcusMcRae wrote:
The best thing you could do for your set up is get rid of the kook's. They suck and then suck some more. If you are stuck with the kook's for a while they like lots of camber and lower pressures. They have soft side walls but don't respond well to higher pressures. Start with 32-34psi and -3 degrees camber in the front and adust the rear camber to how you like your car to rotate.


Marcus. I know you don't like your 'kooks but damn. I think they are a very good tire and an excellent value for the money. Nothing short of an r-comp will have the sidewall stiffness of the RE070s. I have my shaved 'kooks that get put on my WRX for autocross. I will be running stock shocks with STi springs and 26mm front Whiteline bar and 24mm rear Whiteline bar with MRT front camber plates. I am thinking -3 degrees camber front, -1.7 rear with zero toe all the way around.


Yeah, I am still convinced they suck. Shaved they will probably work better. I don't think they have as good lateral grip as the rt215 nor are they as predictable. With the prices the rt615 is going for on vulcan tire the only reason I could see running kook's is if you are sponsored by them.


OT: If it makes you feel any better, I will be running my 225s to start the season, so you can compare to stock 'dead' (or as I like to call them -- race depth) RE070s to your Kooks. :)

KA Comment: I guess I like more rate as opposed to more bar is it feels like two different ways to drive the car. With a big bar, to me, it feels like the car has a huge inital reaction to a little input with varying reaction. With a smaller (read: stock) rear bar and more rear spring, the car feels like it has a much more progressive response to your increasing steering input -- i.e. much more linear and controllable. The down side is you are stuck with a car that does NOT like DD bumpy stuff, hence finding a good medium (and I have high tolerances). None the less, go drive a go kart and then get in your car. It feels like a Lexus afterwards.

Overall: If you are going to jump in, I say jump in. Choose specific things you wanna change, change them, and LET IT SIT FOR 2 AUTOXES. Then, adjust as necessary UNLESS it is really wrong (-3.9f/+.5r on 550/500 rates was WRONG).

Doooo eeeeiiit! (and ride in our cars at the test and tune to get a feel for differently setup WRXes [STis are WRXii]). :D

- dow


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