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 Post subject: Axle Pinion Bolt
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 10:18 am 
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General Motors differentials have a bolt that goes through the casing into a axle pinion shaft. That shaft and the c-clips keep the rear axles in place. To replace the differential, you need to remove the axles, thus the bolt to drop the shaft out.

The trouble is the bolt will not budge. Access to the bolt is limited due to casing and location in the pumpkin.

Any 8mm box wrench or socket is not proving the grip to break it loose. The last thing I want to due is round off that bolt head (any further than the wear it is showing).

Any suggestions for cool tools that might help beyond the normal wrench or socket? I have thought about applying heat to the cylinder.

The last recourse is to bolt it all back up and take the car to the dealer and have them put the new high-performance Auburn in. That is the last recourse....

Any ideas?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 10:24 am 
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Jim I had the same problem when I replaced the axles on the mustang. Only I rounded the damn thing right off and ended up putting everything back together and taking it to a buddies shop. He hammered a 7mm on what was left and heated it with a gas torch.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 10:39 am 
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You're just jealous

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Jim,

If it is supposed to have thread locker (loctite), torch heat can break the bond. I "think" that is part of the trick for getting the similar part out of a Ford diff.

Question: Since I know you will stay legal for your class, is the high performance Auburn a stock class option for your car or are you preparing it for a different class?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 10:59 am 
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Fire, Fire, FIRE!!!!


Image

Its a good excuse to buy a MAPP gas torch. Heat it up and it should break free.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 11:30 am 
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DickRasmussen wrote:
Question: Since I know you will stay legal for your class, is the high performance Auburn a stock class option for your car or are you preparing it for a different class?


So fire it is ... I assume the little propane torches do not have the heat capacity I will need. Bigger is better?

As for Dick's question, I was wondering if anyone would notice. Sorry, the car is going to stay FS and Showroom Stock legal. Auburn has three diffs, high-performance, pro and racer. The high-performance is the GM OEM diff. I had to do a lot of research and asking questions to make sure. Even had to insure the paint on the internal springs were the same color!

Any ways, if I was switching I would go to the T2R diff in a heartbeat. The only good things, I can now participate in the Auburn exchange program. For $100 and shipping, I can get a new diff. Which is a good thing, with a hectic schedule, I can count on three or four per year. Ain't stock great :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 1:09 pm 
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You gotta race the truck
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You can get small containers of MAP gas at Lowe's and HD racing. SHold right next to the propane cansiters

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 1:11 pm 
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You could try tightening it first and seeing if that helps it break free.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 1:48 pm 
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Adam Ligon wrote:
You can get small containers of MAP gas at Lowe's and HD racing. SHold right next to the propane cansiters


Yup Home Depot racing seems to have the better deals. I got a case, 2 MAPP bottles and a pimp ignitor for ~$40 2 yrs ago. Lowe's didnt have the same thing.

Look for the YELLOW bottle. Its my hot wrench of choice. :twisted:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 4:05 pm 
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Jim,

I don't think you live that far from me. I have MAP gas torch if you want to borrow it. Just call me.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 4:39 pm 
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robharvey wrote:
Jim,

I don't think you live that far from me. I have MAP gas torch if you want to borrow it. Just call me.


Thanks for the all the help guys. I went to HD and picked one up. About 3 minutes of heat and an hour to cool, the bolt came right out. So the axles are out and now it is time to pry the old diff out.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:22 pm 
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You're just jealous

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Jim,

Glad to hear the heat worked!

Stock, or at least F Stock, is so great that I constantly resist the temptation. That diff issue just doesn't appeal to me. The best thing I ever did with my F Stock 88 Mustang was put a hitch on it so I could tow a C Mod FF. :lol:

What is different about the posi in the C4 Vettes? I think Miles still has the original in his and it had lots of grip (except on dead tires at the last event).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:29 am 
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DickRasmussen wrote:
Jim,

Glad to hear the heat worked!

Stock, or at least F Stock, is so great that I constantly resist the temptation. That diff issue just doesn't appeal to me. The best thing I ever did with my F Stock 88 Mustang was put a hitch on it so I could tow a C Mod FF. :lol:

What is different about the posi in the C4 Vettes? I think Miles still has the original in his and it had lots of grip (except on dead tires at the last event).


I would think the Vette runs the Torsen. The Auburn is cheaper (thus why they are in the F-bodies) and better out of the box. But they do wear out very quickly. The Torsen is not quite as good, but do last a lot longer. Not sure how many miles are on Miles' car, but they do not last forever :)

The nice thing about the past events, I know what the car feels like without the limited slip.

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