THSCC Forums

I'm looking for an adapter so i can jack on the factory frame rail locoations w/ my new jack like this:

http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/produc ... pe=PRODUCT

except that type of adapter wont work w/ a low profile race type jack ( http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=91039 ). the race type of jack has a pad w/ a rod coming downward like above, but it secures w/ a cross bar going through a hole in the downward rod.

I might just get a pad like the side lift pad here: http://www.protechproducts.net/images/JACKPADS.asp

but i liek this first metal one better.. if only it would fit.

the jack won't reach deep enough under the car to reach the big frame bars under there so i think the factory rail spots are the next best thing

any ideas?

I have heard a hockey puck and some judicious sawing is a backyard way of making something like this.

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02 Focus SVT
STF 9

Before these pads were readily available my dad made his own out of a good piece of hardwood and then covered the top surface with a scrap of indoor outdoor carpet. the only difference is his wood unit only had one groove cut in it and it sat in the jacks metal cup. It looked like this.




Call it a Amish hockey puck.

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George Bright Member # 141
One of the youngest of the old farts.
Yes I voted against you joining the club.

My C4 can use those but same issue. Won't fit properly on the HF jack. I just slide the jack under the car a little bit more and catch a real frame rail instead of the outside lip that is marked for jacking. It's more stable and doesn't hurt anything. There must be more than one point you can use safely.

On my C5 they left holes in the frame rails and you're supposed to use jacking pucks. Newer Bimmers use the same thing. Looks like a hockey puck with an oblong shaped rise in the middle to lock in the hole. You can get them aftermarket in aliminum or hard plastic. I found that lots of people do buy hockey pucks and put an eye bolt in them so they lock into the frame and don't slip. I just slide a 2x4 over the jack and lift the car by the front or rear frame rails so the whole front or back comes up. Easier, quicker, and cheaper.

Graham

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http://www.greywinds.com

a 24" 2x4 always worked for me. i just put it right behind the pinch weld

I also use a 2x4. Just run it through the table saw a few times to make a groove, and then keep nibbling at it until it is the right height. Customizable to any car. And since it sits on the jack saddle, if the wood ever splits, the car will not fall and kill you. I have thought about other materials (hockey puck, make one out of two part polyurethane, block rubber etc) but the wood is cheap, easy and works so well, I just don't see why.

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Rich
http://www.v8mongrel.com/

Cutting with the grain promotes failure. Rubber has no such problem.

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Has no responsibility whatsoever.

My 2x4 is cut across the grain...thus no failure.

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Vincent Keene
'06 Ford Mustang GT (track rat)
'15 Dodge Charger R/T (yeah, it's got a HEMI!)
'07 Ford Fusion SE (205,000 miles and counting)
'98 Chevy Z-24 (retired)
'93 Acura Integra (Team SWB 24HOL Car)

well we found that if we took the setscrew out that holds the jack handle in place we can scoot it in just far enough to adequately reach the subframe rail. we then have to jack in little strokes so we dont hit the sideskirt w/ the handle until its up a few inches, then it works out alright. a bit of a hassle to have to be so carefull though.

there is a bigger jack, the $129 one, but i think its also higher which would limit how far we could scoot it in so i dont think thatd be any better.

AND THEN on top of that my car is an inch lower and so id have to drive up onto boards to reach my subframe.. half the reason i wanted a nice new jack was to eliminate hassle.

so now i think the pinch weld pad might be the simpliest and easiest way to go again. i have some 2x4 scraps so ill try those ideas today. ive tried making an adapter w/ the old jack out of wood but it split, but ill try again

thanks

Go to Lowes or HD and go to the hardwood sections.

Get a large piece for the bottom and then some smaller strips for the sides to create the channel. The glue and or nail the pcs together. This will be both more durable and not split.

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91 Jetta GLI STS/DSP 111
85 Porsche 944 ASP 11
http://www.blackforestindustries.com

I did the hockey puck for the Miata and the Mustang. Cost of puck - free from co worker who plays in an league. Cost of sawing - one arm, or the use of it for a day or so anyway! That was alot of work. Maybe if I had a table saw it would have been easier.

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Todd Breakey
STS 42 - 1992 Sunburst Miata
Dammit!
"You souldn't play leap frog with a porcupine. You might get hurt." - Eliza

pressure treated 1 x 6 deck board. lifts the whole side and when you're done doubles as base on trailer jack. don't forget the jack stands

you could just take a length of 2x4 and rip it along the length down the middle, thus creating two "2x2" pieces

nail (or screw) it to another 2x4 so that the cut section meets up with the "4" dimension.

you will have a 2x4 with (2) 2x2 pieces on top and a 1/2" gap in the middle

(keep in mind that actual dimensions are 1.5"x3.5")

oh ivvee restored cars, rebuilt motors, built houses, designed and built vacuum tube amplifiers, blah blah. DIY is my middle name, but there comes a point in a man's life (especially when he has no woodworking tools and doesnt want to drive to his dad's wood shop) when he says F it! and spends $20

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05 MCS