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I'm going to be trying a little fiberglass work and need to get some fiberglass mat (the rough stuff, not the woven cloth that comes in the standard "Bondo Fiberglass Repair Kit")

Of course, if this store exists, I'd also like some of the other basics (polyester resin components).

SHould I be looking at a marine supply place, or commercial grade auto parts stores?

Scott

Raleigh Plastics and Fiberglass near downtown Raleigh on Raleigh Blvd....near Estes' depot.

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Paint don't make it go any faster.

It's called 1.5 oz/ft mat. The "woven stuff" is called 24 oz/ft woven roving.

Remember I worked in the FRP business for 13 years.

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Vincent Keene
'06 Ford Mustang GT (track rat)
'15 Dodge Charger R/T (yeah, it's got a HEMI!)
'07 Ford Fusion SE (205,000 miles and counting)
'98 Chevy Z-24 (retired)
'93 Acura Integra (Team SWB 24HOL Car)

Let me know when you want to go as I need some too. Why do you want CSM instead of roving?

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Rich
http://www.v8mongrel.com/

They should be used in combination with each other actually. (4M,2R) is 0.25" BTW.

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Vincent Keene
'06 Ford Mustang GT (track rat)
'15 Dodge Charger R/T (yeah, it's got a HEMI!)
'07 Ford Fusion SE (205,000 miles and counting)
'98 Chevy Z-24 (retired)
'93 Acura Integra (Team SWB 24HOL Car)

Because my "literature reference" said that's what I should use.

http://www.misfittoysracing.com/Yugo/flaretutorial/

Scott

Home Depot. Has both woven and chopped fiberglass mat. At least they always have when I needed it.

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91 Jetta GLI STS/DSP 111
85 Porsche 944 ASP 11
http://www.blackforestindustries.com

I have used www.fiberglast.com for ordering the hard to find stuff. A little expensive, I think, but their stuff is always as advertised.

As for both mat and woven fabric I've used WalMart and Home Depot.

I bought some very expensive resin from FiberGlast and some very cheap resin from WalMart (Bondo brand) and both seem to work equally well for what I'm doing (repairing the bodywork on the Radical). I admit that I'm not exactly scientific with my GFRP handywork, as I'm in it more for a strong repair than the ultimate strength/weight balance. That being said, I've had to do some pretty largish repairs (must stop going off in a car with 55mm of ground clearance) and the body panels never seem to gain that much weight.

I will say that working with GFRP is a bunch easier than working with Carbon or Kevlar, or Carbon/Kevlar. I had to repair my spare diffuser (Carbon/Kevlar piece) that was square and flat, and man what a pain in the butt. I am now EXTRA careful with the diffuser. I now understand why carbon fiber stuff is WAY more expensive than plain old glass.

-Matt

Nice reference material. Like I said, let me know. I have some under body panels to make and the idea of flare is intriguing.

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Rich
http://www.v8mongrel.com/

CF also require vaccuum bagging and some an autoclave for curing!
Cloth is used where you want a smooth surface, roving where you need thickness at minimal expense. The most strength is when the resin to glass ratio is as high as possible i.e. only use the minimum amount of resin that just wets out the glass. When we glassed wings on our R/C airplanes we would roll a roll of toilet paper over the cloth to soak up all the excess resin we could pick up, throwing away the outer layers of TP as they became saturated until it stopped picking up resin. If you want a lot of strength with as little weight and thickness possible they sell very thin cloth in hobby shops for model airplanes and boats. It's so thin and light (about the weight of a summer dress shirt material) that it becomes transparent after the resin hardens.
There are different types of resins as well, polyester or epoxy based, surfacing or laminating. Use the wrong one and it could crack apart in use or leave you with a sticky mess.

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SPIN or WIN!
there's no glory for going slow.