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 Post subject: lexan
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 12:15 pm 
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I killed the wabbit
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thinking about going to lexan windows on the rabbit and i'm trying to get an idea of prices.

what thickness is typically used for this application?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 12:36 pm 
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You don't need windows. Just get a lot of lamin-x and you'll be fine :)

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 Post subject: Re: lexan
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 2:07 pm 
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Kevin Hassell wrote:
thinking about going to lexan windows on the rabbit


You do know that lexan windows will change your class right?

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 Post subject: Re: lexan
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 3:03 pm 
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You gotta race the truck
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Vincent Keene wrote:
Kevin Hassell wrote:
thinking about going to lexan windows on the rabbit


You do know that lexan windows will change your class right?


Actually it won't. The rabbit is already an EP car for other reasons

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 Post subject: Re: lexan
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 3:06 pm 
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Kevin Hassell wrote:
thinking about going to lexan windows on the rabbit and i'm trying to get an idea of prices.

what thickness is typically used for this application?


I used 3/16" and supported it so it wouldn't buckle.

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 Post subject: Re: lexan
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 3:16 pm 
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The Giver
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Adam Ligon wrote:
Vincent Keene wrote:
Kevin Hassell wrote:
thinking about going to lexan windows on the rabbit


You do know that lexan windows will change your class right?


Actually it won't. The rabbit is already an EP car for other reasons


Ah...I wasn't aware he was already running in a prepared class.

I remember last year a guy showed up at the 24HR NCAC with a Integra...completely gutted, big cam, and lexan windows. He was classed in ESP. :shock:

As you may have figured Ryan and I had a strong objection to that. :roll:

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'06 Ford Mustang GT (track rat)
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'07 Ford Fusion SE (205,000 miles and counting)
'98 Chevy Z-24 (retired)
'93 Acura Integra (Team SWB 24HOL Car)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 4:28 pm 
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rich, what did you use to support it? you got any pics of the setup?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 12:56 pm 
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I made bars out of strip aluminum. Pretty easy to do. Outside clips were harder because of the contour of the original window channel. For the rear panel, I got lazy and just drilled three two inch ID holes in it at the base to let the air escape. Without them it used to warble like an old man playing a saw at the Hicksville county fair.

Sorry, I have no pictures. I sold the car to Sam Schultz who runs with Triad and BMW CCA. Perhaps you can get in touch with him.

BTW, if you cut the stuff with a hand-held jigsaw, get some gloves on. Lexan splinters under your thumbnail suck.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 11:19 am 
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There is a hardcoated lexan available that is prefered for windows, but it's pretty expensive, I think my brother said he paid > 150.00 a sheet. I can find out for sure if you'd like. The drag racers use a wire style reinforcement on the inside. Looks like a wire (~3/16 or 1/4" I can find out that too if you'd like) ring ~ 2" smaller than the window all around and has bolt on tabs attached. I think they use a rubber washer on both sides of the plastic when bolting it on. In drag racing you are required to run with the windows up, so it doesn't matter that they can't go up and down.
If the lexan is splintering while you cut it, you're using too course a blade and will need to do a lot of sanding to get rid of the chips since they provide a starting point for a crack. (yes Lexan can crack) A band saw is the prefered cutting tool after roughing the pieces out on a table saw. Same thing if you need to drill it use a drill press with a slow feed and a wood block backer preferably with a special plastic drill bit or a brad point bit, a standard wood or steel bit is likely to crack it, especially in a hand held drill at a slow speed. If you need to drill > 1/8" hole with std bits drill it out in several steps in size, making sure the bit is already up to speed before it touches the plastic, if you start up the bit while it's against the plastic it's almost guaranteed to crack! If you use a hole saw switch the center bit to a brad point or better still recess the bit inside the saw and use it centerless in a drill press.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 10:48 pm 
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Nay
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Location: Raleighwood
At work we use a far amount of 3/16" Lexan. We cut it with a saber saw with a fine tooth blade or a circular saw with a plywood blade. I don't have a problem with splinters. I also cut holes with normal brad point bits or wood bits with a backer block for large holes. I have only had one piece crack. We get our's through Piedmont plastics I believe. I would sell it to you but my boss beleves in insane price mark ups. :(

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