THSCC Forums

I have a few things that I would like to run past some of you track racers about car prep.

I have a 1972 Datsun 240Z...I am going to the CMP course this weekend and I am trying to think of everything for a first track event on a car that has been out of mothballs for only 6 months.

The engine is rebuilt and well broken in with new synthetic oil.

I have spent all summer getting the car sorted out. New springs, struts, ball joints, brake system, clutch system, electrical system, fuel system, most bushings are new and or poly.

I just installed new "slotted" rotors, semimettalic pads...no easy avail for performance pads(it has calipers from an 84 fourrunner truck). I am also replacing the grease in the bearings with "synthetic" grease, and I am replacing tranny oil with castrol 75-90 hypoy-C. The differential is getting mobil synthetic 75-90 gear oil. I have already replaced the universal joints in the main driveshaft....side shafts are gonna have to make it.

I am rigging up a brake duct system before this weekend and I am flushing the entire system with new FORD high perf fluid.....( I have been told that this is an affordable fluid with moderately good performance).

I am bringing a set of pads and rotors to the event...I am bringing extra belts and fuel lines..and a complete set of filters and fluids. Also I am bringing 2 more side shafts.....

Is there anything I have blatantly forgotten.??

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Paint don't make it go any faster.

Ford HD is an excellent fluid - you just need to change it fairly often because it's a DOT 3 - more hygroscopic than a DOT 5. You'll want to bleed the brakes after Saturday's sessions, and then again when you get it home.

I'm not a big fan or slotted/drilled/dimpled rotors on track. If they're new, you'll probably be fine, but I'd stick to solid rotors on track if I were you.

Another "for the future" - if nobody makes track brakes for that caliper, keep the backing plates and send them to Matt Nicholson at Carbotech, and they'll put a track-worth friction material on those backing plates. Ditto for the drums.

What is your antifreze/water mixture? If in doubt, go higher % with the water. Make sure it's fresh, and maybe throw in some Redline Water Wetter.

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Tom Freeman
'98 M3/4/5 | '93 Spec3 325i | '12 TSX sport wagon | '03 Tahoe
Team Silver Bullets '91 240SX

Just a comment on the fluids. The DOT1-5.1 ratings have to do with boiling pts, not water absorption.

For locally availabe fluids I like Pyroil. Its DOT4 and has jst about the highest wet boiling point you can find. Kmart carries it and its cheap as well, like $2

For a better fluid I like ATE 200 Gold. It is basically the long lasting version of their Super Blue., which needs to be bleed at least every 6 months. Where as the 200 Gold is good for a yr or more. Not that you should bleed your brakes mroe often, but its nice to know

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91 Jetta GLI STS/DSP 111
85 Porsche 944 ASP 11
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