THSCC Forums

CAM is pretty much wide open in regard to mods and money. It is allowed in STU as well. As for the whine, no, it's still there. All I had done was the rear outer axle seals and bearings. It may come to the point where I have to have the diff rebuilt or throw a torsen into it. To James' point in an earlier post, it does have the salisbury steak carbon disks in the diff right now. My noise enemy is the poly bushing right now.

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Rodney

'08 Bullitt mustang, CAM 7
Autox VP '09-'10, President '11-'12, interim President 2nd half of ‘14
proud recipient of the Bowie Grey service award '12
Now just a guy driving a mustang....

I was told years ago that all SN97 Mustangs got the carbon fiber LSD disks. Were you having trouble with lighting up one rear wheel before you had the work done?

I suspect the whine is the ring & pinion, not the differential itself.

Years ago Don Ingerslew referred me to Craig Fridley at Diversified Automotive in Apex. Don said he was the guy to see for Ford 8.8 rear end work, so I took my '90 there when I wanted to change axle ratios. I don't know if he's still in business, but give me a yell if you want to talk about it.

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Art McDonald
Premier Amateur #518
2008 Dishman Cup
Pivot Cone Snob

Rodney is a waxer (but in a good way)

I used Craig in about 2006 to replace the clutch disks in my 2001 Mustang when I didn't have the time to do them myself and wasn't sure the problem was only the disks (it was). I think I talked to him a year or two ago to verify contact info and whether he was still in business (he was). Shop does not look impressive but the reputation is.

FYI our 97 Mustang diff whined excessively at about 19K miles while still on warranty. Per the receipt Ford replaced the r&p, bearings, cones (races), etc. Did not replace the diff or clutch disk's. Receipt described the problem as "excessive wear" but it was covered by warranty and the car was never used for any track or autocross or towing and is an automatic so there was no concern about owner abuse causing the wear.

My 88, 01, and 12 have been fine. The 97 now has over 150K and is fine. Fine defined as very little whine. All 4 are/were stock.

As an aside I'm hoping the 2015 or so IRS Mustang turns out well. I would really like to "need" one.

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Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

Worth quoting.

Just out of curiosity, how expensive are new R&P for this application? Maybe it's so cheap that it's not a worry if damage is being done by continuing to drive. You drive them until they explode and then just get a new one. The only reference I have is for older Porsche's and this type of issue is a "stop driving and fix before you incur a large repair bill" type of thing. Used R&P are many hundreds and new are much more in the Porsche world. That doesn't include the time/labor to get them out and put back in.

Richard

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Richard Casto
1972 Porsche 914
2013 Honda Fit Sport
2015 Honda Fit EX
http://motorsport.zyyz.com
Money can't buy happiness, but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than a Kia.

From Jegs as an example the Ford Racing r&p is about $200 plus bearings, etc. Of course, if you let it make lots of metal bits then the posi and maybe the outer axle bearings may need replacement.

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Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

Rodney, I've changed the entire rear end in my Datsun since you last saw it. It now has a Ford 7.5" with aftermarket gears and Posi. It's as loud as ever, and nobody can fix it, so I'm going to go through this entire thread to look for ideas.

I may resort to DynaMat.

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Autocross: It's not for tuners that use boost as a crutch.
It's for people who know what a corner is.

I've done several R&Ps and LDSs in Ford 9" & GM 10-bolt & others. As previously stated, if it is howling, the R&P is likely setup wrong. It's not that hard to tell. For the price of a couple quarts of gear lube, some RTV and a couple hours of your time, you can check the R&P setup in your driveway.

Drain the lube
Remove the diff cover
Degrease the R&P (brake cleaner works)
Paint on R&P marking grease
Rotate the R&P
Check the wear pattern (google R&P pattern to see what is should look like)

You want a long and wide wear pattern centered on the ring tooth. Not too deep into the tooth, not running up the edge of the tooth, not slid to one end or the other. Most times the howling is from the depth setting - the pinion is either to deep into the ring gear or not deep enough. This is normally adjusted at the diff bearings. If the wear pattern is slid to one end of the tooth or the other, it is normally adjusted at the pinion nut using shims or a crush sleeve.

Obviously fixing it requires some skills and tools, but anybody can check the setup and if you rule that out, you then think about diff bearings, pinion bearing, wheel bearings, etc.

Cash

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09 Bullitt - DD
11 Fusion - Wife's DD
03 Mazda6 - Track car
00 PSD Excursion - Tow rig
67 Firebird - Don't you still own your 1st car?
61 F100 - Dad's truck
90 Moto Guzzi Calif III - Tourer
00 Cagiva - Adventure bike
00 DRZ400 - Woods bike