THSCC Forums

I've finally made a decision about the 90 CRX. I'm going to rebuild the engine and use that as my daily driver. I've been suggested to have the block bored and honed 30 over, but I've also been warned that that is too much for the engine. What's the deal?

Also, what about pistons. Is this something that I can use the stock pistons with the appropriate rings or will this require larger pistons as well?

If you've got any suggestions on how to verify this, or any rebuild related advice, please let me know.

The car is a 1990 CRX SI, 1.6l , 16 valve engine.

Any overbore will require new pistons (generally cheap for a daily driver). 0.03 doesn't sound like a lot to me, but I'm running a touch over 0.08 over.

Rebuilding an engine isn't that hard actually, just take your time and make sure everything stays clean.

Technically, you can't trust *anyone* either, you are supposed to measure everything before final assembly (but that requires measuring tools that most of us don't have).

Scott

Phil,

Are you completely new to "engine rebuilding"? If so, there is a ton of stuff you need to learn in general plus you need specifics for your engine. In regard to your specific question, if the engine is really tired the pistons probably need replacing (unless Hondas are different from the engines I know anything about) even if you don't need an overbore to make the cylinders round. One major piston wear item is the ring lands. As far as amount of overbore, check the Honda specs and/or class rules if relevant.

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Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

Phil,

Following up on what Scott and I wrote in our almost simultaneous posts, you might want to stop by Borders or Barnes and Noble and look through a bunch of engine building books. There is a ton of information that it would pay for you to know before starting on this project! Regarding measurements: A very smart and mechanically inclined friend of mine bought all the right measuring tools for us to use when rebuilding his engine. We had a heck of a time getting measurements we trusted (i.e. the same numbers each time we measured). The only thing we could really trust for our preassembly checks were the ones from plastigauge for checking bearing clearances. When I did my Lotus engine I had fewer measuring tools but did check everything I could . . . didn't blow up either time so I guess the machine shops did good. Oh, and you will be pleasantly surprised how inexpensive it is to have the machine shop do a bunch of stuff including reassembling the head/valves.

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Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

Try John West. They used to be good. T-hoff is a club sponser but not sure if their machine shop is any good. Boyettes is expensive.

Make sure you get them to turn the crank, check your rods, and assemble the lower end. Assembling the heads is easy with a valve spring compressor.

_________________
Silver Honda
Green Ford
Blue/White Suzuki
Red Triumph
Grey BMW

"Never let life be shaped by fear of its end"

No, you're a towel!

J-spec B16 is what I would look for. John west does great work. Toyota dealership uses them exclusively and with our shop forman they have to be good. in fact my "new" Samuri has undergon their treatment as well as some minor head work done to my corolla.

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beware of EV powered Ford EXP's they are quiet and come for you when you least expect it... hide behind an aluminum light pole...... ya that will help

Couple of comments on this, as I have recent personal knowledge.

THoff, sorry I know they are a club sponsor, but under no circumstances would I let them touch my engine. Not even with a ten foot pole. Way, way too many very recent horror stories from work they have done. Ask me about the 10hr clutch job ordeal I went through this weekend. And I personally know of 2 others who brought them their motor to be worked over and they ruined them both.

As for Boyettes they have a great reputation, but unless things have changed drastically recently they wont even look at import work.

I would also talk to CHS out in wakeforest. The two guys who run that shop are the guys that started the shop for THoff. And then left when THoff starting "changing" polices and work quality.

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91 Jetta GLI STS/DSP 111
85 Porsche 944 ASP 11
http://www.blackforestindustries.com

For a daily driver - If I were you, I would drop a $400 junkyard engine in there. Repeat as necessary until you get tired of the car. You will never get your time or money back from engine work.

If you're interested in hopping the CRX up and are willing to put some time and money in - swap in a better motor! Bet you could do a ZC for the $$ you would spend on a motor work. Talk to Rex at Happy Japs.

Save your "I'm going to learn how to build an engine" experience for a competition car, where minor stuff like an overbore will really matter.

Unless you would just like to spend your time and money playing with engines, well then, full speed ahead

PS - another vote for CHS. They did the head on my car 3 years ago. Runs like a champ, and reliable - and y'all know how I drive my car!!!

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Mike Whitney
whit32@gmail.com, 919-454-5445
V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1

If you are going to be using it as a daily driver only, I'd highly recommend forgetting about rebuilding your engine and find a good used motor or a rebuilt shortblock. With all the F&F wannabees out there doing Vtec swaps you should be able to find a used engine pretty cheap.

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SPIN or WIN!
there's no glory for going slow.

Another happy CHS customer, as for doing it yourself vs junkyard? I won't go there, I enjoy building motors, so I'm kind of screwy in the head.

A junkyard motor will get the job done sooner and likely be cheaper. It *might* not be as good though.

A "cheap" rebuild would just involve honding the cylinders, and re-ringing the pistons. A valve job up top with new valve stem seals.

All of that would cost under $200 in machine shop labor, and parts would be no more than a normal gasket kit.

No reason to think the motor needs more than that if it's currently running (no overheated, etc). Speaking of which, does it run? If so, what compression numbers does it make, and what should it make?

If you spring for balancing, you will probably notice and like the difference (even that only costs about $100).

Scott

I looked in my FSM that Honda makes three piston/ring variations. 1) stock, 2) .025, 3) .050 and the price between the two overbored numbers is minute.

If I do this, I'll either have help or I'll turn the engine over to another as I'd never take on this job myself. I'm not exactly mechanically minded, the simple tasks take way too much of my time already. I'm comfortable changing a timing belt and adjusting valves, but that's about the most difficult mechanical work I've done.

I did price having the head rebuilt and getting the deck milled and the block bored, the price at THoff was acceptable... but I'll be looking elsewhere after what a mechanic told me was going on there. Anyone have contact info for CHS or John West?

As far as getting a japanese engine, forget it. I want to put as little as possible in order to get the maximum life out of the car. The japanese engines are generally junk and probably more risky than buying a junk yard engine. If I can get 4-5 years (is that reasonable?) or another 100k out fo the car, the money will be well worth it. It's damn cheaper than a car payment!

The motor wasn't running, it had a blown head gasket and the kid who had it didn't take care of it, so I'm very hesitant to not do a full rebulid.

What would balancing do? I'm assuming it's not needed, so why bother in a daily driver? Keep in mind that my current daily driver is my red 190k crx... which by the way has been acting up lately!

Thanks folks. I'll see what I can dig up and learn in this process, now get me that contact info!!!

Not trying to change your mind, but I've heard really good things about steve at hmotorsonline.com. Every situation I've heard of were something went wrong (not often) steve bent over backwards to fix it. I plan to order my H22A for my prelude from him when I get around to it.

Goodluck with whichever way you go.

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2001 Honda S2000 - SOLD
2012 Boss 302
2003 BMW 330i

My nissan has gone through 3 J/Y motors in 3 years at 500+ a pop.(about 60K miles) If I would have just built the engine to begin with it wouldn't be sitting in the yard right now waiting for the next transplant. At this point the engine rebuild would have costed me around the same as the three engines, and been more reliable. but that is my own personal opinion, and everyone knows what opinions are like.

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beware of EV powered Ford EXP's they are quiet and come for you when you least expect it... hide behind an aluminum light pole...... ya that will help

CHS = Cylinder Head Specialty

Wake Forest (off of Hwy 1/Capital blvd).

556-0775

Do a Yahoo Yellow Pages search for a map.

I'd be happy to help with a rebuild, but you live kind of far away for it to be convienient.

Balancing will make it:

1) run smoother
2) make a little more power
3) rev to redline easier.
4) last longer.
5) cost more

#5 seems is wha it's all about for me.

Scott

Phil,

Engine building for a primarily stock street engine isn't tough. Probably no more difficult than changing a timing belt. Just a lot more steps and things to pay attention to. The machining is the skilled part and you won't be doing that. The main things are do you "want" to learn how to do it, do you have the time/interest to do the learning/research, and do you have the time and place to actually do the work.

_________________
Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT