need help replacing mazda clutch

Aaron Buckley · **Posted:** Thu Aug 29, 2013 1:52 pm

RodneyWright wrote:

I'll take that under advisement, but if I'm going thru this much trouble to replace it, makes sense to start w/ a nice machined surface so the clutch beds correctly.

In theory, yes, but realistically, it's overkill. I have done about 10 clutch jobs on various cars and unless you have complete disc failure with rivets contacting the flywheel, you need not resurface it. I bought a drill mounted buffing wheel like a scotch brite and just cleaned up the surface on all of them, one going for 140k prior to selling the car and still held strong. - AB

Jordan Normark · **Posted:** Thu Aug 29, 2013 2:00 pm

I have done it both ways also. Organic clutches are pretty easy on the flywheel. The only time I had a lot of flywheel wear was with a 6 puck metal friction surface disc.

Richard Casto · **Posted:** Thu Aug 29, 2013 2:32 pm

RodneyWright wrote:

jeremy gast wrote:

If you haven't done it yet. I have an "engine hoist" that goes up on top of the fender wells to hold up the engine if you would like to borrow that???

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-ca ... 96524.html

wow, hadn't seen those before, great idea. I have a weight bar (that I don't use) that I might be able to kludge together a support bar. If that doesn't work, I'll be giving you call to borrow...

I wish I had known HF sold something like that a few months ago. I welded up my own version when I did the transmission in the Odyssey

RodneyWright wrote:

I'll take that under advisement, but if I'm going thru this much trouble to replace it, makes sense to start w/ a nice machined surface so the clutch beds correctly.

Another way to look at it is that it's another thing to go wrong (during removal, etc.). I personally would take a mechanics straight edge and if the surface was flat, rough up as others suggested and not pull it off the car.

Richard

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Thu Aug 29, 2013 3:18 pm

Richard Casto wrote:

RodneyWright wrote:

I'll take that under advisement, but if I'm going thru this much trouble to replace it, makes sense to start w/ a nice machined surface so the clutch beds correctly.

Another way to look at it is that it's another thing to go wrong (during removal, etc.). I personally would take a mechanics straight edge and if the surface was flat, rough up as others suggested and not pull it off the car.

If you do decide to remove/resurface it, be sure to put the bolts back in with Loc-tite on the flywheel AND pressure plate. Ask me what happens when you don't.

Jason Tower · **Joined:** Wed Jun 11, 2008 3:31 pm **Posts:** 1173

RodneyWright wrote:

I'll take that under advisement, but if I'm going thru this much trouble to replace it, makes sense to start w/ a nice machined surface so the clutch beds correctly.

the flywheel is already bedded. the clutch disk itself is less of a concern. it's like brakes - vibration is almost always caused by rotors (flywheel) not pads (clutch disk). if it was smooth when you took it apart it'll probably be fine. we've done several clutch jobs in the integras and all have been perfectly fine without flywheel resurfacing.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Sep 02, 2013 11:09 am

help! Any of you dealt w/ this mazda 3 tranny before? I have everything removed and unbolted per the instructions I have, but I can't get the tranny separated from the block. I can't find anything else on line for tips or tricks. I'm SO close to getting to the clutch itself but I don't want to break anything. What am I missing?

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Mon Sep 02, 2013 12:19 pm

RodneyWright wrote:

help! Any of you dealt w/ this mazda 3 tranny before? I have everything removed and unbolted per the instructions I have, but I can't get the tranny separated from the block. I can't find anything else on line for tips or tricks. I'm SO close to getting to the clutch itself but I don't want to break anything. What am I missing?

While waiting for Mazda 3 or fwd in general experts:

1) Has it separated at all? i.e. any gaps appearing? If it won't separate at all with reasonable tapping with a thin blade tool like a scraper look for a hidden fastener.

2) If there is slight separation at one point, look for a hidden fastener at the opposite part of the perimeter

3) If there is a very small gap, is the trans "hanging" from the engine or vice versa such that the input shaft is binding in the clutch/pilot bearing/dowel? Can you carefully use a jack/etc. to slightly "bend" the interface to see if that helps or breaks any "adhesion" (see below)?

4) Any chance that it is simply adhesion from paint or sealant on the mating parts.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Sep 02, 2013 12:27 pm

I can get the firewall side of the tranny to separate w/ no issues but I'm constrained on how much I can move due to obstructions. The grill side and bottom won't budge. There's a place I put a steel wood splitter wedge in-between the tranny and block and tapped it into place w/ a BFH but I didn't pound on it. I have everything loose that I can see to loosen and then some. Doesn't make sense.... Once I can get this separated I can start doing what I wanted to do, replace the clutch.

The only thing I can think of is there's sealant from the oil pan that's holding it together right now. Problem is there's nowhere to put a lever in there to move it. Man this is frustrating...

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Mon Sep 02, 2013 12:29 pm

A couple more guesses:

Starter removed?

Any bolts or stud/nuts from the opposite direction (i.e. engine side versus trans side) that you didn't see?

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Sep 02, 2013 12:32 pm

Starter is loose, but not removed. Everything I've read says you don't need to remove as it's located on the engine block. Right now it's free and moves so there should be no binding there. As for hidden fasteners, I've lost count at how many times I've gone over the bolting area. There are 9 bolts to remove and I have nine bolts on the floor. Damn, so close....

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Mon Sep 02, 2013 12:37 pm

Can you get something real thin like a strong putty knife to the hard to access interface and then tap it with a "medium" force? A gap on one side probably means that you didn't miss any fasteners since the mating surfaces are too rigid to bend without breaking (probably).

Or can you do a horizontal version of the jack the engine and/or trans separately to "bend" the interface and pop any adhesion loose or relieve and binding? Maybe with a two by four or similar wide sort of soft surface to be easy on what it contacts.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Mon Sep 02, 2013 12:40 pm

Or to get really crazy . . . insert a thin rod etc midway in the gap you have and a fastener that you can gently tighten to provide leverage against the tight side? This one scares me . . .

BriceJohnson · **Joined:** Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:33 am **Posts:** 2230

You probably don't want to hear this, but I ended up taking the intake manifold off to be able to get more room to work and pry it apart. Be careful. With the middle bolt if you do take it off. It's a bitch.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Mon Sep 02, 2013 12:50 pm

Have you tried closing the gap you have and then working on the tight side to remove any internal bind from the misalignment?

Almost perfect alignment has been important with the trans removals and installations I've done over the years.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Sep 02, 2013 12:59 pm

HAHA!! found a 10th bolt that no one disclosed! Right at the slave cylinder and somewhat hidden. Tranny is free! Now to wrestle this bad boy out. Back later.....

THSCC Forums

need help replacing mazda clutch

Who is online