need help replacing mazda clutch

Ryan Holton · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 10:49 am

Lets see if this helps

You would have to force the ball joint past the bolt to get it apart, you would damage one or both if you were successful

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 10:54 am

Ah, I guess all of us were assuming Rodney had a typical ball-joint with the tapered seat. With the pinch bolt design it's usually easier to separate, but replacing the joint itself (because of those damn rivets!) is more difficult.

Richard Casto · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 11:01 am

Based upon just looking at the diagram and given the difficulties you are having, I might consider removing the LCA from the subframe, but leave it temporarily connected to the hub/upright. I assume the goal is to move the entire hub away from the transmission enough to feed the end of the axle through the hub so you can then remove the entire axle. Then once you get the axle removed, I would remove the hub/upright from the strut and take the entire combo of LCA and upright over to a hydraulic press (bring to it my place in south durham if you need access to a press) and then press out the frozen bolt. Or, once you have the LCA + hub out of the car, you might be able to position it in a way that you can really hammer on it with a strong punch.

This also assumes you don't run into similar frozen bolt issues when you try to remove the LCA from the subframe!

Or you can try heat + hammer. My fear with the heat approach is I would be concerned about overheating the hub/upright as it houses your wheel bearing.

:soap:

I hate crap like this. It is so much easier when it all just unbolts like it should.

Richard

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 11:13 am

I don't think a propane torch will introduce enough heat to damage the hub, I just need to throw a little heat into bolt to break the connection. Still have it soaking in PB blaster. Maybe I'll get lucky this evening after work. I have enough pent up frustration to deal it some death blows due to work sucking...

Ryan Holton · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 11:22 am

RodneyWright wrote:

I don't think a propane torch will introduce enough heat to damage the hub, I just need to throw a little heat into bolt to break the connection. Still have it soaking in PB blaster. Maybe I'll get lucky this evening after work. I have enough pent up frustration to deal it some death blows due to work sucking...

Propane? Hehehehehehhe, I'd be more worried if it will get hot enough to do any good!! There is nothing in there to melt except for the ball joint boot. MAPP gas hasn't hurt it on my car.

Also FYI, that bolt is torque to yield as is several other bolts on the control arm :stick:

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 12:43 pm

just ordered new lower control arms and tie rod ends from Amazon. Sheared a tie rod stud and I've already ruined the drivers side ball joint boot. None of this was part of the plan in replacing the clutch. At least the front end will be in good shape. As for the bolts, we'll see what comes w/ the new parts. I'll go by the mazda stealership if I have to. I also need to order a clutch arm and pivot pin per recommended info in the clutch.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 12:46 pm

Is front wheel drive always such fun to work on?

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 1:37 pm

DickRasmussen wrote:

Is front wheel drive always such fun to work on?

Getting the transmission in/out on a FWD is even more fun. We've done it so many times on our Lemons car we can do it blind-folded though. I've had mine in/out several times on the Z-24, and once you done it a few times, it's "not that bad", but each car is different. Case in point, the Focus SVT is a HUGE PITA. I think Stephen and I would rather walk than tackle that job again.

BriceJohnson · **Joined:** Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:33 am **Posts:** 2230

Your control arm bushings are probably shot with that mileage anyways.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 1:58 pm

BriceJohnson wrote:

Your control arm bushings are probably shot with that mileage anyways.

Agreed. At 175k miles on the car, this can do nothing but help....

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 2:01 pm

RodneyWright wrote:

BriceJohnson wrote:

Your control arm bushings are probably shot with that mileage anyways.

Agreed. At 175k miles on the car, this can do nothing but help....

I'd be interested to see how the clutch looks when you finally get it out. My wife's Fusion has the same 2.3L drivetrain with 120K on the clock right now. I'm sure I'll get to replace the clutch in that one day myself.

BriceJohnson · **Joined:** Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:33 am **Posts:** 2230

Mine went out at 143k miles (slipping badly enough that the pressure plate side was rubbing the rivets, thankfully the flywheel side was not).

Ryan Holton · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 2:40 pm

RodneyWright wrote:

Sheared a tie rod stud and I've already ruined the drivers side ball joint boot.

And I thought I was heavy handed!!!! Damn Rodney. You save yourself some trouble by replacing the entire control arm, cutting out the ball joint rivets is miserable work.

clinehall · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 3:06 pm

RodneyWright wrote:

just ordered new lower control arms and tie rod ends from Amazon. Sheared a tie rod stud and I've already ruined the drivers side ball joint boot. None of this was part of the plan in replacing the clutch. At least the front end will be in good shape. As for the bolts, we'll see what comes w/ the new parts. I'll go by the mazda stealership if I have to. I also need to order a clutch arm and pivot pin per recommended info in the clutch.

Thanks for sharing, makes me feel better about my mechanical abilities. People don't expect me to do my own work but I always tell them: " I save a lot of money fixing my own S%$#, but I spend alot of money fixing my own S&^&."

My Mini is sitting pretty in the driveway with it's new water pump waiting for me to fix what I broke while installing it.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 3:21 pm

Ryan Holton wrote:

RodneyWright wrote:

Sheared a tie rod stud and I've already ruined the drivers side ball joint boot.

And I thought I was heavy handed!!!! Damn Rodney. You save yourself some trouble by replacing the entire control arm, cutting out the ball joint rivets is miserable work.

I've ordered 2 new control arms, bushings and ball joint included.

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need help replacing mazda clutch

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