stuck brake rotor removal

Arthur McDonald · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 1:54 am **Posts:** 2052

I always figured the replacing front brake rotors on my '07 Mustang would be a breeze. After all, you just remove the caliper and the caliper anchor bracket, and slip the rotor off the studs. Of course, I ran into trouble removing the front right one. It's stuck. I've already poured half a can of WD-40 around the hub from the front and the back, and through the holes around the studs, and now I have an oily mess. Have tried tapping the rotor on the front between the lug bolts with a hammer, and beating on the rotor from back with a claw hammer (really don't want to do much of that, for fear of trashing the bearings), and I've tried using a wonder bar between the spindle and the rotor. No luck.

I found a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRl ... r_embedded that says you can use nuts and bolts threaded through the caliper anchor mounting holes on the spindle to force the rotor off, and I guess that's my next step.

The thing that bugs me is that I suspect that more than rust is at fault. The studs are jammed up against the leading edge of the holes in the rotor (3 o'clock side of the stud hole if at the stud is rotated to the top) and at least one hole seems to be a bit elongated where the stud touches it. I wonder if I should just clean the WD-40 off the rotors, reinstall the old pads and then go drive backwards in circles around the cul-de-sac, slamming on the brakes every lap hoping to make the rotors slip the other way on the hub, or hoping that my neighbors will call the police on me and solve the problem that way.

Ideas?

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2012 11:18 pm

yeah, mine did the same thing on the 07. A block of hardwood or plywood and a hammer was the cure. Keep hitting, and I mean hitting the rotor as you rotate it around. It will eventually come loose. I found a 2lb hammer was better, more mass, but harder to swing under the car.

RichardNuss · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:42 am

To force the rotor backwards, put a piece of wood thru the studs (like it would be laying across the face of the wheel if there were a wheel on there), with one end of the wood touching the ground. This way the hub can't rotate. Then stick something in the vented slots around the outside of the rotor to give you leverage to rotate it backwards. Can hit with a hammer when doing this too.

Or do it vice-versa and make the thing-through-the-vents the stop against the ground, and use the wood-thru-the-lugs as your lever (to rotate the lugs forward in that case).

Assuming you have vented rotors.

And assuming you are going to replace the rotor (you might break a vent fin)

Assumes you have room to do this. You can turn the steering wheel to get more room (like front edge of rotor pointing out of wheelwell).

Also assuming that you have the car blocked up well, because you can shake on the car pretty good this way, including vertical plane. So make sure it can't fall on you.

This should get the studs out of the edge of the rotor holes if that's an issue, and should also help break the bond between the rotor and hub flange.

Cash Davidson · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2012 8:04 am

It's usually stuck on the hub not the studs, I use a torch and heat the center bore of the rotor - usually does the trick. When I put it back together I use a light coat of anti-sieze on the hub. Good luck, Art.

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2012 8:29 am

Arthur McDonald wrote:

I always figured the replacing front brake rotors on my '07 Mustang would be a breeze.

So the stock rotors lasted you FIVE years? How many miles are on the car now?

I haven't had a problem with my Mustang's rotors, but I have swapped them 4 times already in less than 10,000 miles. I guess I haven't left them alone long enough for them to get stuck.

If you're having that much fun just getting the front rotors off you'll have blast changing the rear brake pads. Even using the correct tool the e-brake mechanism can be a b*tch.

BretLuter · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2012 12:04 pm

Vincent Keene wrote:

Arthur McDonald wrote:

I always figured the replacing front brake rotors on my '07 Mustang would be a breeze.

So the stock rotors lasted you FIVE years? How many miles are on the car now?

I haven't had a problem with my Mustang's rotors, but I have swapped them 4 times already in less than 10,000 miles. I guess I haven't left them alone long enough for them to get stuck.

If you're having that much fun just getting the front rotors off you'll have blast changing the rear brake pads. Even using the correct tool the e-brake mechanism can be a b*tch.

I'll take a check engine light over this FixOrRepairDaily crap any day.....

:stick:

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2012 12:48 pm

BretLuter wrote:

I'll take a check engine light over this FixOrRepairDaily crap any day.....

FYI, the reason my rotors have on/off four times is because I switch back and forth when I'm running on track. Hawk pads don't play well with others, even other Hawk pads do I have a dedicated set of street and race rotors.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2012 2:21 pm

BretLuter wrote:

Vincent Keene wrote:

Arthur McDonald wrote:

I always figured the replacing front brake rotors on my '07 Mustang would be a breeze.

So the stock rotors lasted you FIVE years? How many miles are on the car now?

I haven't had a problem with my Mustang's rotors, but I have swapped them 4 times already in less than 10,000 miles. I guess I haven't left them alone long enough for them to get stuck.

If you're having that much fun just getting the front rotors off you'll have blast changing the rear brake pads. Even using the correct tool the e-brake mechanism can be a b*tch.

I'll take a check engine light over this FixOrRepairDaily crap any day.....

:stick:

Our 140,000 mile, 15 year old 1997 Mustang GT daily driver is still on the original never turned rotors. I did replace the oem pads with a new set from Ford at about 100K miles. Replaced the original plugs at about 115K miles. I have to admit that the car has needed a new intake manifold (the water passage split), an Idle Air Control Valve, an AC leak repaired, a valve in the fuel tank evaporative line diagnosed and replaced due to the one and only check engine light, and some padding replaced in the driver's seat cushion. I'm sure there are one or two other minor things I'm forgetting. :lol:

Edit to add: I forgot the TSB addition under warranty of an external Trans cooler due to "torque converter chatter" when the ATF is tired. Turns out fresh ATF would have solved the issue (it is a maintenance item).

Dick

RobLupella · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:34 pm

DickRasmussen wrote:

BretLuter wrote:

Vincent Keene wrote:

I always figured the replacing front brake rotors on my '07 Mustang would be a breeze.

So the stock rotors lasted you FIVE years? How many miles are on the car now?

I haven't had a problem with my Mustang's rotors, but I have swapped them 4 times already in less than 10,000 miles. I guess I haven't left them alone long enough for them to get stuck.

If you're having that much fun just getting the front rotors off you'll have blast changing the rear brake pads. Even using the correct tool the e-brake mechanism can be a b*tch.

I'll take a check engine light over this FixOrRepairDaily crap any day.....

:stick:

Our 140,000 mile, 15 year old 1997 Mustang GT daily driver is still on the original never turned rotors. I did replace the oem pads with a new set from Ford at about 100K miles. Replaced the original plugs at about 115K miles. I have to admit that the car has needed a new intake manifold (the water passage split), an Idle Air Control Valve, an AC leak repaired, a valve in the fuel tank evaporative line diagnosed and replaced due to the one and only check engine light, and some padding replaced in the driver's seat cushion. I'm sure there are one or two other minor things I'm forgetting. :lol:

Edit to add: I forgot the TSB addition under warranty of an external Trans cooler due to "torque converter chatter" when the ATF is tired. Turns out fresh ATF would have solved the issue (it is a maintenance item).

Dick

I can't wait to hear about it when you try to take off the rotors
:-)

Arthur McDonald · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 1:54 am **Posts:** 2052

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Vincent:
52000 miles. The original pads weren't quite ready for replacement last fall, but Rodney offered me his used Bobcats so I put them in. That didn't quite work out like I hoped, so that's why I'm trying to install the rotors/factory pads that I got from newtakeoff.com.
I let the dealer do the rear brakes last summer. Shameful, I'm sure, but that day, at least, I was adhering to the Kauffman dictum: "I can make money faster at my job than I can save it doing my own repairs".

Cash:
I have an attached garage. No torch.

Richard:
I have too much clutter in my garage to have room to do much of anything. Also, I really don't want to have a broken rotor frozen to the hub/lugs.

I picked up some grade 8 bolts and nuts (see the video link) this afternoon, so I'm going to give that technique try. Hope I don't break the ears off the spindle or anything stupid like that.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2012 10:43 pm

RobLupella wrote:

I can't wait to hear about it when you try to take off the rotors
:-)

At the rate it is going I never will have to take off the rotors of my "FixOrRepair(every)Decade or So" :lol:

If I do though I'll dig out the trusty propane torch, etc.

Dick

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Mar 12, 2012 10:46 pm

I'm telling ya, hammer and a block of wood. No issues! Plus you get a mini workout to boot! You're not going to break or bend the rotor, trust me.... I'm the president :shock:

Arthur McDonald · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 1:54 am **Posts:** 2052

Yay! The rotor popped loose! And the garage isn't on fire and the old rotor is undamaged.

Adding photographic evidence...
The video linked from my original posting was for a Ford truck or SUV. I had to go down to 7/16" bolts to get them through the holes in the Mustang spindle. It was a tight fit getting both nuts in between the spindle and rotor, but I did manage to squeeze a piece of scrap metal in between the rotor and the bolt/outer nut to protect the rotor face. Then, I held the inner nut still with a wrench and turned the bolt head with another wrench. It only took a minute or two turning the bolts carefully before the rotor popped loose. I barely even heard it. Might have been the WD-40 soaking in for 24 hours. This photo was taken after the rotor popped loose.

With the scrap metal removed. Say hello to my little friends!

clinehall · **Posted:** Tue Mar 13, 2012 7:39 pm

RodneyWright wrote:

I'm telling ya, hammer and a block of wood. No issues! Plus you get a mini workout to boot! You're not going to break or bend the rotor, trust me.... I'm the president :shock:

Hope and Change :roll:

Charlie Guthrie · **Joined:** Thu Aug 28, 2003 8:14 pm **Posts:** 832

Good solution Art. And not that I would ever doubt our illustrious President, but the mechanical engineer in the crowd has to beg to differ. Banging on brake rotors with a hammer can cause Brinell type damage to the bearing races http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinelling. Not that I haven't done this (before I knew it was wrong), but it is not good practice. Most bearings can take a higher load while moving than when static, and no rolling element bearings like impact loads, especially when static. (Lots of hydrodynamic lubrication jargon to be had about this, but....just don't bang on bearings).
By the way it is generally acceptable to beat a bearing into a bore or onto a shaft just as long as the blows are applied to the same race that is being force fit, and the balls never take the load :lol:

)
Charlie G

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stuck brake rotor removal

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