THSCC Forums

Wipe the peanut butter off with bread and you'll have lunch waiting when you are done....

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Mark Barnes
*13 Grabber Blue Boss 302 Mustang
*93 Reef Blue Mustang LX 5.0 track car
*Grim Reaper Racing V-6 Mustang LeMons/Chump car
*91 Calypso Green Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible

I know Rodney said this was from a previous owner, but that aside, this is excellent advice:



Yeah. That. Seriously, Collinite 845 is outstanding. I've used it on black plastic on purpose, to make it look better. It lasts for months, too, and is reasonably easy to apply, certainly no more difficult than your average wax. Just don't slather it on thickly, or you'll hate it. Also, don't use it on really hot panels.

Werkstat AJT is another one that some club members have tried that won't turn your stuff white.

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Karl S.
2014 Baby, 2014 House, 2013 Ford Focus ST, 2013 BMW 328i, 1994 Mercedes E320
(Insert passive aggressive signature line here)

I guess I'm getting my waxer on since I have very little I'm adding to the mustang in regard to parts, but I'd like to clean up the engine bay and motor itself, seems to have a light coating of oil on it from the last 3 years of driving and it needs a little TLC. What is the best way to clean off the motor considering all of the electronics on these things now?

In the old days I'd run it down the car wash and just use the pressure washer and call it done.

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Rodney

'08 Bullitt mustang, CAM 7
Autox VP '09-'10, President '11-'12, interim President 2nd half of ‘14
proud recipient of the Bowie Grey service award '12
Now just a guy driving a mustang....

This is how I do it.

Opinions vary on this, but here's mine. For newer cars, say, ten years old or newer, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I wouldn't use a power washer, though, because it's probably not necessary. A garden hose with a mist or shower setting on it should be well than enough. Obviously, I don't spray water directly onto stuff like alternators or distributors/coil packs, but I typically don't bother to cover that stuff up. You can if it makes you feel better - Glad "Press and Seal" kitchen wrap works really well for this. So does plain old aluminum foil. The electronics today are sealed up a lot better than they were a decade ago. With an old CRX like the car I sold to Ryan, for example, I'd cover up more stuff. Same with my 1994 Mercedes. But with the S2000, I just spray away.

I avoid "spray on and rinse off" cleaning products, particularly on engines and wheels. They either don't work well, or they only work because they're so powerful. Taking a brush to something isn't all that awful a job. I think of it like dishes. If I just ran some dawn and hot water over them, they'd be cleaner than they were, but not "clean." It takes a little scrubbing.

A lot of the "stuff" on your motor probably isn't oil, at least, I should hope it's not oil. If it's really covered with a light coating of oil, that seems wrong.

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Karl S.
2014 Baby, 2014 House, 2013 Ford Focus ST, 2013 BMW 328i, 1994 Mercedes E320
(Insert passive aggressive signature line here)

I (finally) cleaned the engine compartment of my 2001 Mustang GT with 92K miles before "listing" the car. I used Karl's approach (garden hose) combined with Simple Green. Worked pretty well. However, by now I'm sure the buyer (Chip Stabler) has had it detailed along with the rest of the car.

Dick

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Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

Be careful with Simple Green. It has developed a reputation for being hard on fasteners and bare metal, especially aluminum. Rinse thoroughly if you use it.

http://www.backcountrypilot.org/forum/v ... f=7&t=5115

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Karl S.
2014 Baby, 2014 House, 2013 Ford Focus ST, 2013 BMW 328i, 1994 Mercedes E320
(Insert passive aggressive signature line here)

So I'm guessing the PB trick doesn't work on convertible tops that have a touch of wax on them. Any ideas?

While on the topic, is there a good convertable spray-type treatment to periodically apply? Marcus told me a good brand that he used and I forgot the name.

Karl,

Thanks for the heads up. I did rinse thoroughly this time and will be sure to do so in the future.

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Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

Majestic solutions has a convertible top spray on conditioner that I used on then now sold 330Cic. Was a noticeable difference on the top when it rained on it. I found the spray got on everything. I'm thinking a small foam roller and shallow pan to roll this on the top to get better control and better coverage, but I'll let Karl jump in here to correct me.

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Rodney

'08 Bullitt mustang, CAM 7
Autox VP '09-'10, President '11-'12, interim President 2nd half of ‘14
proud recipient of the Bowie Grey service award '12
Now just a guy driving a mustang....

Nice. I figured they had something that worked pretty decent to just preserve the top from the rip & tear monster, especially since it's 8 years old. Guess I could make some cardboard cutouts for to 'shield' the windows and paint.

Lexol Vinylex is what I used. It works well just don't apply too much. I used a sponge to apply it.

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Silver Honda
Green Ford
Blue/White Suzuki
Red Triumph
Grey BMW

"Never let life be shaped by fear of its end"

No, you're a towel!

Vinylex is great for this, and is very versatile. You can use it on weatherstripping, tires, dashboards, on and on. I always have a bottle in the stash.



One minor correction: no vinyl treatment is going to stop that from happening. The "typical" tears in an S2000's top come from the inside out, via friction from the convertible top frame. Vinyl protectants help with regards to UV assault, but won't prevent or even prolong the inevitable.

Anyway. Specific to convertible toptreatments, the best I've used is Duragloss Vinyl and Convertible Top dressing. I was a Raggtopp user for a few years, but the Duragloss stuff is way better. It's a liquid in a bottle kind of like an old Rain-X bottle. You could transfer it to a trigger sprayer, but there's no real need to. Apply it with a sponge. Any sponge will do. Buff off any excess with a "second string" microfiber towel.

Same applies for people having problems with overspray getting all over the car...don't spray stuff directly onto the car unless the directions tell you to. This goes for anything. Tire dressing, etc., if a product's job isn't to be on paint, or to clean glass, use some kind of applicator.

Examples:
Don't spray directly onto surfaces being treated: tires, dashboards, wood trim
OK to spray directly on: spray-on LSPs like AJT, glass cleaner, "quick detail spray," etc.

You'll save yourself a LOT of window cleaning. And everybody hates window cleaning. Even me.

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Karl S.
2014 Baby, 2014 House, 2013 Ford Focus ST, 2013 BMW 328i, 1994 Mercedes E320
(Insert passive aggressive signature line here)

I have been using Aerospace 303 products for convertible top cleaning and care. It's sold in marine shops, or online at Amazon et al. Works very well--water beads for months...I also use their vinyl/leather protectant after cleaning/conditioning with Lexol. No complaints with any of that stuff either.

Oh, and I'm a total convert to the Werkstat wax. Easy to apply, durable and looks great.

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Steve Carter
1972 Datsun 240Z-- resto pics at http://picasaweb.google.com/srcartermd
2007 GPW Honda S2000-- STR 86