Swapping Fusion motor into the Mazda6

Cash Davidson · **Posted:** Tue Oct 25, 2011 8:21 pm

First strip the 09 Fusion motor of all things that made it a pathetic grocery getter - throttle body, intake, wiring harness, valve covers, timing cover, oil pan, exhaust manifolds.

Then make it Zoom-Zoom by replacing with all the Mazda pieces! :mrgreen:

JohnByers · **Posted:** Tue Oct 25, 2011 9:11 pm

At least it was that simple! Any clue what caused the initial failure?

TomFreeman · **Posted:** Tue Oct 25, 2011 11:15 pm

Yeah...that is my question also. If it was an oil control thing, could you add some baffling to the stock oil pan?

VK did that with the pan in the Lemons Prelude. He just welded in a strategic little plate on the stock pan - but that was a steel pan. I have an itching suspicion, yours is an aluminum pan.

Cash Davidson · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 10:29 am

Actually the pan has some baffling.

The fusion pan actually has more oil capacity, but my headers don't clear it.

Previous engine failure was my fault. A couple months before the VIR event, it overheated in traffic on the Durham Freeway. Pegged the temp neddle, steam rolling from under the hood, the whole 9-yards. After about 20 min, the traffic got up to 35mph and the temp came right down. Turned out to be a failed fan relay. Replaced it and had no further trouble - but I suspect that little incident stressed the mating surfaces between the block and heads. Fast-forward to VIR, second day, third session - the head gasket blows on the front stretch. By turn 10, big white smoke followed by hydrolock and broken bits.

I'll be nicer to this engine.

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 10:40 am

Cash Davidson wrote:

Previous engine failure was my fault. A couple months before the VIR event, it overheated in traffic on the Durham Freeway. Pegged the temp neddle, steam rolling from under the hood, the whole 9-yards.

Yep, there is no reset button once the engine has been overheated like that. That is one reason I added 'real' gauges to my Mustang. By the time the stock gauge has moved enough from the 'warm fuzzy' center position it's likely too late.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 11:15 am

Regarding overheating damage:

2012 Mustangs (both engines apparently) have fail safe cooling according to my owner's manual. I knew the trucks got this years ago but didn't know it is in the Mustangs now.

How fail-safe cooling works
If the engine begins to overheat:
• The engine coolant temperature gauge will move to the red (hot)
area.
• The engine coolant temperature indicator will illuminate.
• The service engine soon indicator light will illuminate.
If the engine reaches a preset over-temperature condition, the engine
will automatically switch to alternating cylinder operation. Each disabled
cylinder acts as an air pump and cools the engine.
When this occurs the vehicle will still operate. However:
• The engine power will be limited.
• The air conditioning system will be disabled.
Continued operation will increase the engine temperature:
• The engine will completely shut down.
• Steering and braking effort will increase.
Once the engine temperature cools, the engine can be re-started. Take
your vehicle to an authorized dealer as soon as possible to minimize
engine damage.
When fail-safe mode is activated
You have limited engine power when in the fail-safe mode, so drive the
vehicle with caution. The vehicle will not be able to maintain high speed
operation and the engine will run rough. Remember that the engine is
capable of completely shutting down automatically to prevent engine
damage, therefore:
1. Pull off the road as soon as safely possible and turn off the engine.
2. Arrange for the vehicle to be taken to an authorized dealer.
3. If this is not possible, wait a short period for the engine to cool.
4. Check the coolant level and replenish if low.
WARNING: Fail-safe mode is for use during emergencies only.
Operate the vehicle in fail-safe mode only as long as necessary to
bring the vehicle to rest in a safe location and seek immediate repairs.
When in fail-safe mode, the vehicle will have limited power, will not be
able to maintain high-speed operation, and may completely shut down
without warning, potentially losing engine power, power steering assist,
and power brake assist, which may increase the possibility of a crash
resulting in serious injury.
WARNING: Never remove the coolant reservoir cap while the
engine is running or hot.
5. Restart the engine and take your vehicle to an authorized dealer.
Driving the vehicle without repairing the engine problem
increases the chance of engine damage. Take your vehicle to an
authorized dealer as soon as possible.

Ryan Holton · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 11:27 am

Cash Davidson wrote:

I'll be nicer to this engine.

That's what we all say.

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 11:35 am

DickRasmussen wrote:

Regarding overheating damage:

2012 Mustangs (both engines apparently) have fail safe cooling according to my owner's manual. I knew the trucks got this years ago but didn't know it is in the Mustangs now.

Wow, Ford has made an engine that is Remchak proof?

BTW, you are scaring me Dick. All that sounds like something a German engineer would come up with, which end the end will ultimately fail, and your engine would be a paper weight. I've found it easier to just keep and eye on the 'real' gauge.

Cash Davidson · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 11:40 am

Vincent Keene wrote:

That is one reason I added 'real' gauges to my Mustang. By the time the stock gauge has moved enough from the 'warm fuzzy' center position it's likely too late.

Yeah, I got my new 2.5" mechanical gauges for oil pressure and water temp. Just need to find the right place to mount them.

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 11:54 am

Cash Davidson wrote:

Yeah, I got my new 2.5" mechanical gauges for oil pressure and water temp. Just need to find the right place to mount them.

IIRC, you can buy the same vent pods for the Mazda 6 like I have. The vents still function also. Here's a picture of my gauges in the Mustang:

Cash Davidson · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 12:10 pm

You obviously haven't seen the interior of the Mazda6 lately.

I have cleaned it up a bit. It has no side glass not to mention vents.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 12:23 pm

Vincent Keene wrote:

BTW, you are scaring me Dick. All that sounds like something a German engineer would come up with, which end the end will ultimately fail, and your engine would be a paper weight. I've found it easier to just keep and eye on the 'real' gauge.

Vincent, why are you insulting Ford engineers by comparing them with German engineers? :lol:

Cash, I've had to replace the mechanical water and oil pressure gauges in my race car several times in 20 years of autocrossing duty. I don't know if it is the vibration from the car/engine or from 100K of trailer miles.

MikeWhitney · **Joined:** Wed Aug 20, 2003 9:15 pm **Posts:** 4724

Cash Davidson wrote:

Previous engine failure was my fault. A couple months before the VIR event, it overheated in traffic on the Durham Freeway. Pegged the temp neddle, steam rolling from under the hood, the whole 9-yards. After about 20 min, the traffic got up to 35mph and the temp came right down. Turned out to be a failed fan relay. Replaced it and had no further trouble - but I suspect that little incident stressed the mating surfaces between the block and heads. Fast-forward to VIR, second day, third session - the head gasket blows on the front stretch. By turn 10, big white smoke followed by hydrolock and broken bits.

If it makes you feel any better, we "lost" a motor in the Whitney fleet due to similar circumstances. Kendra's PT cruiser overheated at a drive-through last year. No obvious indication until engine puked it's coolant. Turned out that the fan connector was rubbing on the engine and eventually popped loose -- no fan = overheat when idling for a long time. Plugged it back in, rebled cooling system, all was fine for over a year.

Then a month ago or so, it started puking coolant regularly into the overflow. Interestingly, I could never get the combustion gas tester to show positive for gas in the coolant -- in retrospect, the overheating coolant turning to steam was flushing it all out. Leakdown test showed massive blow-through from the cylinder to the cooling system and cylinder-to-cylinder.

Pulled it apart (what a PITA on that car), and measured 0.009" of warpage on the head. Took a chance and had it resurfaced, new Felpro gasket and new headbolts, and it's been working great for 2 weeks ... crossing fingers. Vincent's right, after a big overheat, for many engines it's just a matter of time.

George Bright · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 8:29 pm

My 2000 Focus also has some kind of failsafe mode. It has never hinted at getting hot since I have owned it.

I have had my share of issues with cooling on my old Datsun 510 and the 210 beater car.

steve remchak · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 10:42 pm

Vincent Keene wrote:

DickRasmussen wrote:

Regarding overheating damage:

2012 Mustangs (both engines apparently) have fail safe cooling according to my owner's manual. I knew the trucks got this years ago but didn't know it is in the Mustangs now.

Wow, Ford has made an engine that is Remchak proof?

BTW, you are scaring me Dick. All that sounds like something a German engineer would come up with, which end the end will ultimately fail, and your engine would be a paper weight. I've found it easier to just keep and eye on the 'real' gauge.

heeeeeeeeeey. what motor are we talking about here VK? the E30 didn't have enough VK approved gauges. i only hope my 6.0 had this after my last bout of ignorance of the mechanical ways.

i had it checked and it did 1500 miles to Oh-hi-o and back without issue.

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Swapping Fusion motor into the Mazda6

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