MikeWhitney wrote:
From what I can find online, there was no LSD option on the 2g Durangos, so I'm out of luck on that option.
It's a Dodge 9.25", 12 bolt rear, which appears to have been in use since about 1963. So it looks like there are plenty of aftermarket options, but I can't seem to figure out exactly what I need to order, or from where.
Considering the prices I have seen for a LSD unit ($300-400) I'd rather get new than something used anyways.
I've never had one of these open, diffs are totally foreign to me .. can the LSD be replaced/added without replacing the ring and pinion at the same time? Considering the mileage (70k) and severe towing duty, should I just throw in a new ring and pinion ($200) while I'm in there?
If it's a "standard" Dodge 9.25 rear axle, there are lots of options. For example, my father-in-law's 1998 2WD Ram 1500 runs the same rear axle, and has the "Track-Lock" that I mentioned as a stock replacement option. But Chrysler has done strange things with axles at times, like some Dana 44 rear axles in Wranglers take different ring and pinion designs than older ones.
A good place to start for your options online would be here:
http://www.ringpinion.com/Diffwizard.aspx . Fill out the form for your vehicle, and look under the "traction devices" category. Looking there (assuming I'm looking it up right) there are several options available. You do not want the Detroit Locker or Lock-Right - those are metal-to-metal lockers that use teeth rather than clutches to provide the limited slip, and they are *not* smooth for a mainly street-driven vehicle. Of the others shown, you can see the "Chrysler TracLoc" that I mentioned. The aftermarket clutch-type units shown would be just as good. But price them vs. a used one (used should be *cheap*) with a clutch rebuild kit (
http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetail ... Source=Wiz), and see what you think price-wise. The rebuild kit for the limited-slip would replace the wear items (talk to the sales rep to make sure you get all the parts you need for this), so no disadvantage to going with a used unit if you're going to rebuild it.
Locally, check parts price at this place:
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/ They are up on Hwy 70/Glenwood right by that Toyota Dealership. They can also do the install for you if you don't have your own recommended "diff guy".
Or if you are just replacing the carrier and keeping the original ring and pinion, do it yourself - you're definitely capable of doing it, and I am happy to help if needed (I've got one or two diff-related tools you might need, if you don't have them).
http://www.ringpinion.com should have setup instructions available, and it would be good to look at the instructions for your axle to decide if you want to do it yourself, since they all have their little differences. And check out these FAQs:
http://www.ringpinion.com/FAQ.aspx , and there is a lot of other good info on that site.
Talking to either of the parts places mentioned above, they should be able to tell you all the parts you'd need for the swap.
If you are thinking about changing gear ratios, make sure you buy the carrier (diff) matched to the ratio you want. Some axles use different carriers that offset the ring gear to account for the larger or smaller pinion diameter of different ratios. See this:
http://www.ringpinion.com/ContentFrame. ... Breaks.inc . Looking at that, it looks like the 9.25 may use the same carrier for all ratios, so that would make it easy.
To install, you do *not* by default need a new ring and pinion. The ring gear has to come out with the diff, and you have to take it off and swap it to the new diff. You also need new diff carrier bearings, and need to press those onto the new limited-slip diff. Then you use shims on the bearings to set the proper backlash between the gear teeth and you apply marking paint (or something) to the teeth to check that the contact pattern between the teeth looks right (carrier not offset too far towards or away from the pinion by the shims).
If you get a new ring and pinion to change gear ratio, you also have to replace the pinion, which is more involved because you have to set the pinion at the correct depth in the housing (again using shims), and also on some axles set proper pre-load on the pinion by measuring the force it takes to rotate it as you tighten the pinion nut.
You can measure the backlash and look at the condition of your current ring and pinion to decide if you want to replace them.
_________________
91 RallyX Audi Coupe Quattro
89 A-Team Astro-van demo derby winner at 2011 NC State Fair (
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MrZqwENRqU)
Broken 89 Subaru GL-10 RallyX turbo wagon - need to sell it and all my parts cars
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