s52 head gasket job?

JamesShort · **Posted:** Sun Jun 26, 2011 7:08 pm

How bad is it pulling a head off an S52 and retiming it etc. And if it is one of those heads that it's just not worth it to DIY, how much will a legit shop charge?

Maybe I should start by asking what you Bimmer folks think of a 98 M3 that is consuming coolant and slightly overheating at stop lights and in high load situations while moving where there is no obvious leaks. Water pump is less than 1.5 years old (metal impeller). Are headgaskets known to go bad on the s52

Steven Carter · **Posted:** Sun Jun 26, 2011 8:15 pm

dumb questions:

coolant level OK? Thermostat replaced? Aux fan switches function correctly? Was the coolant system flushed and bled properly when the new water pump was installed? HG R&R on the S52 is above my comfort level as well as with the VANOS stuff, but with a shop manual, beer and time all things are possible.

JamesShort · **Posted:** Sun Jun 26, 2011 8:27 pm

Since the overheating has been noticed, my brother in law has been topping up the coolant with distilled water so the coolant level should be fine. He said the coolant reservoir doesn't look oily. Thermostat has not been replaced and might be a good and cheap start.

ColinOConnell · **Posted:** Sun Jun 26, 2011 10:00 pm

The plastic endcaps on the E36 radiator are common failure points. Mine only leaked when the engine was well above idle RPM. Not saying it isn't the gasket, but try running the engine above idle and look for leaks & drips in the easy parts to fix.

JamesShort · **Posted:** Sun Jun 26, 2011 10:01 pm

ColinOConnell wrote:

The plastic endcaps on the E36 radiator are common failure points. Mine only leaked when the engine was well above idle RPM. Not saying it isn't the gasket, but try running the engine above idle and look for leaks & drips in the easy parts to fix.

Thanks, I'll pass that info on.

Sean O'Connell · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2011 12:51 am

timing the engine requires a few special tools, i've got a set and i'm sure others in the club do as well. before you jump to that step, you say he is topping it off with water, how often does he need to top it off? is the fan clutch working properly? does the coolant system say pressurized after the car is shut off and how long? does the cooling system instantly pressurize when the car is turned on? i usually only see head gasket problems as a result of severely overheating on these engines. i would suggest looking at all other possibilities first because even if it does turn out to be the head gasket something else is likely to be the cause.

Charlie Guthrie · **Joined:** Thu Aug 28, 2003 8:14 pm **Posts:** 832

Does the engine still have the unreliable plastic water pump impeller? If so, then the pump is due for replacement anyway. The plastic impellers break down and then don't pump. There were many radiators replaced due to failed water pumps leading to over-pressurization and blowing the plastic side tanks. You could have a plastic pump with a few missing impeller fins.
A slow leak is often the pump shaft seal and it is hard to see without an inspection mirror and a good light. I'd check there first. I have had to replace them and it's quite simple.
Charlie G

Keith Quistorff · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2011 3:21 pm

JamesShort wrote:

Water pump is less than 1.5 years old (metal impeller).

JamesShort · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2011 4:00 pm

Shop pressurized the system and it spewed from the endcaps.

Any recs on a new radiator? Shop wants $200 for an OEM (with plastic endcaps). If a all aluminum can be sourced for less that is worth a damn, my Father in law would prefer to go that route.

steve remchak · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2011 4:22 pm

JamesShort wrote:

Shop pressurized the system and it spewed from the endcaps.

Any recs on a new radiator? Shop wants $200 for an OEM (with plastic endcaps). If a all aluminum can be sourced for less that is worth a damn, my Father in law would prefer to go that route.

i have an in-expensive aluminium radiator in my track car. purchased three years ago for well over 6 bills. i would suggest the OEM version. consider them a wear item James. :roll:

JamesShort · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2011 4:25 pm

steve remchak wrote:

JamesShort wrote:

Shop pressurized the system and it spewed from the endcaps.

Any recs on a new radiator? Shop wants $200 for an OEM (with plastic endcaps). If a all aluminum can be sourced for less that is worth a damn, my Father in law would prefer to go that route.

i have an in-expensive aluminium radiator in my track car. purchased three years ago for well over 6 bills. i would suggest the OEM version. consider them a wear item James. :roll:

Well the issue is my parents-in-law are broke and my brother-in-law is next to worthless and the more this costs the higher the likely hood that the 'bills' will be coming out of my pocket in the form of a loan

.

Does $200 sound decent for an OE?

Keith Quistorff · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2011 4:28 pm

JamesShort wrote:

Does $200 sound decent for an OE?

Sounds high, but it's been a few years since I last bought one. I mailed ordered OEM radiators from either bimmerparts or bimmerworld, seems they were under $150 IIRC.

steve remchak · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2011 4:31 pm

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog ... ad_pg1.htm

Keith Quistorff · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2011 4:37 pm

Cheapest I'm seeing is Rockauto - they have three aftermarket replacement brands ranging from $96 to $125. Not sure about shipping charges (or quality of these particular brands).

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2011 4:37 pm

If *you* have to pay for it James, there are shops that do replace the plastic end tanks only. We had one in my boss' old 4.6L Explorer fixed for less than $100.00.

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s52 head gasket job?

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