E36 Ignition Cylinder

Lee Williams · **Joined:** Wed Sep 03, 2003 12:22 pm **Posts:** 75

Hi folks! Once again, I come to font of collective wisdom that is THSCC.

My car (manual 1998 328is) won’t start. I had a problem with the key spinning in the ignition cylinder that is apparently a relatively common problem with E36s. I had started the car and could not get the key to ‘catch’ so that I could turn it off, so I put it into gear, released the clutch (with the parking brake on) and stalled it out. I disconnected the battery, tried to find out more about the problem online, swore at the car, disconnected the ignition switch from the back of the ignition cylinder and was able to get the key to engage again and stop spinning. At that point, I figured that I needed to replace the ignition cylinder so I managed to remove it, order a new one from the dealer, and installed it. After hooking everything back up (battery, ignition switch, antenna ring for key recognition), I insert the key, turn it and at the first position, the odometer lights up and the radio works. At the second position, all the dash lights light up. So far, so good. Turning it the rest of the way gets no response from the starter, nothing, not even a click. Not good.
The windows, sunroof and door locks all work fine using the buttons inside the car but when trying to lock or unlock the car using the key fob, the alarm system does its little whoop, whoop and will not actuate the locks. It sure seems to me like it is a misdirected anti-theft system. Someone suggested putting the key in the door and/or trunk latch to aid in recognizing the key but still can’t get the starter to engage.
I started to get it towed to the shop but was not so sure that they could get anything done today so I left it in the garage hoping that I may be able to get some advice and fix it myself this weekend.

Thanks in advance for your experience, wisdom and, heck, any wisecracks.

Lee

JamesShort · **Posted:** Fri Jul 09, 2010 12:55 pm

I think there might be a chip in your key that has to be programmed to the ignition module for the car to start.

My old man hates all the trim/plastic that is on car keys nowadays, so he took my Mom's CRV non-keyless key and cut the plastic off it. The key wouldn't work the ignition anymore because the chip wasn't in the proximity of the car.

JamesShort · **Posted:** Fri Jul 09, 2010 12:59 pm

If all else fails, you can put your old cylinder back in and do this:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... p?t=637372

This says that the cylinder has to come from Germany (possibly pre-programmed to your key):
http://www.stlbmwcca.org/wwwboard/viewt ... f=4&t=3068

BriceJohnson · **Joined:** Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:33 am **Posts:** 2230

My evil plan has worked, just a bit sooner than I anticipated. . .

I kind of agree with what James said. You either need your key or ignition unit reprogrammed to match each other, at least thats my best guess.

I would also recommend about 2-3 cups of sodium silicate added to your oil when you are done, to "clean" things out a bit. :evil:

Lee Williams · **Joined:** Wed Sep 03, 2003 12:22 pm **Posts:** 75

Don't even think that will work. I put the old cylinder back in last night and still wouldn't start. But it does still spin so I took it back out.

Lee Williams · **Joined:** Wed Sep 03, 2003 12:22 pm **Posts:** 75

I did have to wait a day to get the cylinder and I think that it came from der Vaterland.

Brice, I should have known you were behind this. I think what I'll do is sell the car and get a civic. I hear they are pretty good in ST. :twisted:

JamesShort · **Posted:** Fri Jul 09, 2010 1:21 pm

Well might be time to start getting the multimeter out and doing continuity/voltage testing. Maybe you blew a fuse/relay while removing the old one? Test for voltage at the starter solenoid or continuity on the output of the cylinder with the key in the cranking position etc etc.

steve remchak · **Posted:** Fri Jul 09, 2010 3:08 pm

i think you need to go to the dealer. i'd almost bet you need to have the key and the car synched back up.

i seem to remember reading about this at www.bimmerforums.com

do a search it should turn up something.

JamesShort · **Posted:** Fri Jul 09, 2010 3:42 pm

And it seems you have to reprogram the keys to do the keyless entry:

Quote:

You need to have all the keys with you that have the remote unlock function (you don't need the valet key nor any non-remote spare keys)

Get in the car and close the doors.

Put one key in the ignition turn it one click forward and then back. Remove the key from the ignition.

Hold the unlock button while pressing the round lock button three times, then release the unlock button. The door locks should move to signal successful initialization. For the second key press and hold the unlock button while pressing the round lock button three times, and release the unlock button. Locks should move again. Repeat as needed for any additional keys.

You have 30 seconds to do each key. Keep the car doors closed throughout the procedure. Only the first key gets put into the ignition...the other keys just need to go through the unlock-lock-lock-lock button press.

This is not relevant to your issue getting the engine to start, but may fix your other issue.

Sean O'Connell · **Posted:** Fri Jul 09, 2010 5:47 pm

it sounds like an EWS alignment issue to me. you can either take it to the dealer or a competent independent European garage. i highly recommend Mpowered automotive in carry.

Lee Williams · **Joined:** Wed Sep 03, 2003 12:22 pm **Posts:** 75

Thanks to everyone for the input. I was convinced that it was an EWS alignment issue so I didn't do much more checking. I did take a look at the fuses but didn't see a blown one. Guess I need stronger glasses or better light because it turned out that it was indeed a blown fuse (the 'gong' fuse).

JamesShort · **Posted:** Tue Jul 13, 2010 10:32 am

Lee Williams wrote:

Thanks to everyone for the input. I was convinced that it was an EWS alignment issue so I didn't do much more checking. I did take a look at the fuses but didn't see a blown one. Guess I need stronger glasses or better light because it turned out that it was indeed a blown fuse (the 'gong' fuse).

Yep that fuse goes to a ton of stuff. Glad you got it fixed.

clinehall · **Posted:** Fri Jul 16, 2010 6:09 am

Lee Williams wrote:

Thanks to everyone for the input. I was convinced that it was an EWS alignment issue so I didn't do much more checking. I did take a look at the fuses but didn't see a blown one. Guess I need stronger glasses or better light because it turned out that it was indeed a blown fuse (the 'gong' fuse).

I bought a new motorcycle when I was convinced I had destroyed my BMW K1200lt I was rebuilding because I could no longer start it. Finally decided to check the fuses. A\ :oops:

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:59 am

A couple of things they taught in Army Electronic repair classes:

1) Check the power cord and the outlet it is plugged in to
2) Check the fuse (I've learned with automotive fuses that a bad fuse might look OK so use an ohmmeter)

Unfortunately it seems these two problems are only the "cause" if you have NOT checked them first. :wink:

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