Looking forward to B Stock

Aaron Buckley · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 9:51 am

TomFreeman wrote:

Of all the stuff I thought you would do, a new car was not on the list. Color me surprised. I wasn't aware of this package, but it sounds like it was custom made for you. Congrats!

Thanks Tom. Who knows, it could suck

I just like the idea of knowing that I'm not buying a pre-abused STi. I want to do the abusing

- AB

Keith Vail · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 9:57 am

Aaron Buckley wrote:

Thanks Tom. Who knows, it could suck

I just like the idea of knowing that I'm not buying a pre-abused STi. I want to do the abusing

- AB

Aaron make sure to do the break in properly on the motor. I would recommend driving it easily for the first 800-1000 miles. The life of those turbo motors seems to be very dependant on how they were broken in. I know some of those cars can go forever without burning much oil but it seems the people that run them hard from new start burning oil much sooner. I always baby my car for the first 1,000 miles. The S2000 didn't see VTEC until after that.

JamesShort · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 10:07 am

Baby it in the sense of no super high rpms (manual says 4k...I kept it under 5k) but in that range do some nice high boost pulls and high vacuum decelerations from 5k->2k. Keep that tach bouncing around basically.

I did that for about 900 miles (with hard disk magnets on the end of the filter) and did an OC:

Since then it's got the piss driven out of if and doesn't burn any oil (pulled the intercooler recently and it was dry). At the triad test and tune I stayed in 1st for the first 1/3 of the course (1st is good for 39

) and was bouncing off the limiter all day long and she begs for more

.

Michael Westerfield · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 10:24 am

Aaron Buckley wrote:

David Spratte wrote:

Have you priced bumper skins and undercar plastic bits? :oops:

Sadly, I have

There is a difference in the two, but I think if I put clear bra on it, it might hold up.

The other thought is to put a unpainted nose on it for autocross only. Ugh. - AB

I have a clear bra on the mustang. I'll take it since I talked Ford into it for free, but I'm not in love with it. I debate taking it off all the time as I wonder what the long term UV effect will be on the paint with/without it. I haven't noticed any issues with hitting cones yet though, and Steve and I have hit a few.

Anyways, you will probably already have made a decision by the time you see my car at the next event, but if not you can take a peak at the clear bra and see if it's what you want.

PS-I want to say the bill for it from a Formula One place was ~700$. It seemed overpriced for what it was supposed to cost.

BriceJohnson · **Joined:** Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:33 am **Posts:** 2230

We've got one on my wife's mini and I actually would recommend it. You are free to take a look at it as well. Its been on there since we bought the car new and I certainly don't see any noticeable difference in color between the paint. The line has gotten a bit more defined as dirt builds up there a little bit, but all in all in still looks great. Cone marks always come off quite easily. We bought it more for the rock chip issue though (given how upright the mini's front end is). We also got a deal on it when buying new.

Donnie Barnes · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 10:57 am

Agreed with everyone on the break-in thing. I have always been pretty picky about proper break-in on my cars, and AFAIK each new car I've had is still going strong. Never a motor problem. I know I drove the absolute ever-loving-piss out of my STi, both on the street and at events.

I'm pretty sure Aaron is smart enough to do this, too. I mean he's pretty dumb in a LOT of other ways, but he's dialed in on the car thing. :twisted:

--Donnie

Keith Vail · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 11:21 am

Aaron if you want I have the name of the guy in Greensboro who does all the cars for Foreign Cars Italia. He quoted me a pretty good price when I priced them for the S2000.

Les Davis · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 2:04 pm **Posts:** 2059

My recommendation would be to just put the clear bra on the bumper cover itself, I've seen that stuff after it has been on a car for 5+ years and it ain't so pretty, but if you just put it on the bumper cover, your only risking what you would have to paint in the worst case anyway.

Michael Westerfield · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 11:37 am

Les Davis wrote:

My recommendation would be to just put the clear bra on the bumper cover itself, I've seen that stuff after it has been on a car for 5+ years and it ain't so pretty, but if you just put it on the bumper cover, your only risking what you would have to paint in the worst case anyway.

I agree with that. I've been seriously considering taking it off just the metal hood part and leaving the bumper.

Aaron Buckley · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 11:38 am

x3 on the break in procedure. When I bought the Celica new, I kept it under 4k for 1500 miles... when a car revs to 8400 rpms, that's no small feat

I'm not 100% sold on the clear bra thing. I think a traditional bra on the car during events might keep the front end from shredding when I hit cones and then all I do is remove it after events and clean the cone marks off the side of the car :wink:

I did decide to go with a 32mm FSB instead of the 29mm bar, although I may have Niles talk me into a 34mm bar. I need that front end to be really stiff. I think with the rear being so much stiffer than the other 2nd gen US STi's, I can play with toe and get good rotation.

I also found a dude with axel back turndown for the car too. I think I can get it for about $50 and it's perfect for what I want: removing weight.

Wheel wise, fortunately Tire Rack has the wrong offset quoted on the Enkei PF01 in an 18x8.5. It was listed at 45mm, but after confirming with Enkei, it's actually 48mm in that size. Thus, to be stock legal, I will only need to shave .65mm off the wheel face. At 18# they are light, relatively cheap and look great.

I'll order a set when I get the car and mount them on without tires to see if losing 1mm with cause clearance issues. Considering the braking system is unchanged from the '04-'07 cars, the bigger diameter will probably add a bit of clearance.

Keith, can your guy shave the wheel faces with tires on?

I'm still not sure what to do on tire size/brand. 285 Hoosiers aren't going to get it done. 295's maybe. If 315's fit, it would put 2nd gear top out at 58.7mph which would be great, but would limit acceleration. 285 Kumhos will probably wear the best and can handle the extra beef of heavy poorly cambered car. I know they can fit, yet would love to try the 305 Kumho, but bet I could get one set mounted and then the mounter would beat me with a hammer.

- AB

Keith Vail · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 11:50 am

Aaron Buckley wrote:

Keith, can your guy shave the wheel faces with tires on?

Unfortunately no. They need to mount the wheel by the outer hoop on the work bench. Plus I wouldn't trust leaving a set of race tires in a machine shop with bits of metal flying everywhere.

My opinion would be to take some of those 315's you have from the Vette and mount them on the wheels to test fit before buying a new set of Hoosiers. The 285 Kuhmo will definitely wear the best but I am not sure I would attempt to mount the 305 Kuhmo on that wheel. Why is 58 mph a bad thing for gearing? I get 58 with the S2000 on the short tires and the STi will get there faster so I would imagine that would be great for a Prosolo.

Aaron Buckley · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 12:08 pm

Keith Vail wrote:

My opinion would be to take some of those 315's you have from the Vette and mount them on the wheels to test fit before buying a new set of Hoosiers. The 285 Kuhmo will definitely wear the best but I am not sure I would attempt to mount the 305 Kuhmo on that wheel. Why is 58 mph a bad thing for gearing? I get 58 with the S2000 on the short tires and the STi will get there faster so I would imagine that would be great for a Prosolo.

Bryan creeped into my head that this car probably will never handle great, but will make up it's time in pure acceleration... but my thought is to cram as much tire as you can onto a rim regardless.

Your idea is right. I know getting the 315 on the rim is a piece of cake, the real question is whether it will fit on the car.

What is the differential in front to rear that is acceptable to not screw up the AWD system? I'm trying to figure out if a smaller but within reason tire (like the 295 if I had a rub issue) would be within the range. - AB

JamesShort · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 12:19 pm

Aaron Buckley wrote:

Keith Vail wrote:

My opinion would be to take some of those 315's you have from the Vette and mount them on the wheels to test fit before buying a new set of Hoosiers. The 285 Kuhmo will definitely wear the best but I am not sure I would attempt to mount the 305 Kuhmo on that wheel. Why is 58 mph a bad thing for gearing? I get 58 with the S2000 on the short tires and the STi will get there faster so I would imagine that would be great for a Prosolo.

Bryan creeped into my head that this car probably will never handle great, but will make up it's time in pure acceleration... but my thought is to cram as much tire as you can onto a rim regardless.

Your idea is right. I know getting the 315 on the rim is a piece of cake, the real question is whether it will fit on the car.

What is the differential in front to rear that is acceptable to not screw up the AWD system? I'm trying to figure out if a smaller but within reason tire (like the 295 if I had a rub issue) would be within the range. - AB

You would be highly advised not to run different diameter tires with Subaru AWD....even with the DCCD. However I'm sure there are people who have.

Keith Vail · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 1:27 pm

JamesShort wrote:

You would be highly advised not to run different diameter tires with Subaru AWD....even with the DCCD. However I'm sure there are people who have.

I am going to go with James on this one. Unless they are the exact same diameter it could screw with the system big time. I would just tune the car with toe and shock adjustments.

JamesShort · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 1:39 pm

In the WRX it has a viscous coupling center diff which means running different diameter tires would create a lot of heat over time which will break down the sealed lube and the diff dies

.

In the DCCD, it's not a viscous LSD, but the clutch plates will always be slipping which will wear out the gear oil faster as well as the clutch plates.

THSCC Forums

Looking forward to B Stock

Who is online