Watches... Functional or just jewelry for men?

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Wed Oct 28, 2009 8:19 pm

I typically get emails from U-bid, the ebay spin off, and there was a click for some 32 degree watches that looked nice. So, off I went to u-bid to look. They actually have some nice looking stuff w/ lots of bids, so us THSCC watch geeks are not alone in the universe....

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Wed Oct 28, 2009 11:14 pm

need a $10,000 rolex daytona for $89? Here you go....

http://www.ewatchesite.com/daytona-ii_c ... tches.html

don't know that I buy one of these. It would like driving a pontiac fiero converted into a kit car ferrari

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:07 pm

As Monty Python says, "... and now for something completely different." Just stumbled across this site. Damn, they have some nice off the wall stuff...

http://www.watchismo.com/

I like the "welder" series.

Wes Eargle · **Joined:** Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:47 am **Posts:** 3683

RodneyWright wrote:

Wes Eargle wrote:

In a moment of weakness, I ordered the Sub black/green and an olive NATO strap. Given Chris's warranty and feedback, it'll be a decent beater watch

VERY nice choice. I'm digging the Newman right now. So many choices. Thanks for the link

I like it. I received it on Friday and the band from a separate dealer on Monday. The bracelet does have a cheap feel to it compared to both Seiko and Tag, I'm glad that I swapped it out. I wasn't sure how I'd feel about a NATO strap, but it turns out that I like it. I don't notice it, being different from a bracelet, so that works for me. I used westcoastime.com as the vendor, I might go back to them if I go after the orange Sea.

After 24 hours, it is on the same second as my Link, so that's a bonus. I might set it to some sort of external time source to see what real loss/gain there is. No wear and tear data, other than I haven't managed to scratch the mineral dial yet, and I'm wondering how long that it'll take. The end result (to save me from having to take a snapshot and publish it online) looks just like this, with the obvious difference being the words on the face and that he installed his upside down.

David Edwards · **Posted:** Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:34 pm

I'm late to this thread but there seems to be lots and lots of misinformation in this thread.

I work on everything from Timex to Rolex on a daily basis. Watches are a very personal accessory that people often establish an emotional attachment to. If you get an emotional attachment to your cell phone, they have 12 step programs for that.

While a cheap Casio or Timex will often keep better time than a Rolex, how many things do you know that you can buy AND USE for 20+ years and it's worth more than you paid for it. Historically, Rolex have been a good investment. There are certainly many high grade watch makers that build movements better than Rolex but none come close in market share and investment potential. They are also easy to service.

Be weary of many high grade watch companies that don't make their own movements.

I won't share my opinions on chinese made replicas other than to say I don't touch them.

Seiko divers were mentioned by several people. I prefer the old 6309 movement to the 7S26 movement but both seem to be work horse watches that have no trouble lasting 30 years. If you can find the old quartz verions with the 7548 movement, they are becoming quite valuable. I work on these all the time and own about 5 or 6 myself.

Donnie Barnes · **Posted:** Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:32 pm

Wes, which band is that? Some of the reason I don't wear my Rolex is the bracelet and I'd like to try one of those bands. I've got a GMT-Master II, which I know is 20mm. Anything else I need to know about what will and won't fit it?

Does anyone know (David?) off the top of their heads if the GMT-Master II *should* let me change the date separately? I don't have a clue where my manual is right now, but some folks mentioned it could be hard to "find" the right spot on the dial to do it. I've played with it and I can only find three positions. The first is right after you unscrew the knob, and that winds it. The next position out changes the hour. The next position out changes the minute hand. So if I let the date get off by a few days I have to wind a bunch of hours around to get it back right, which is what bugs me the most about it. So is something out of whack, or is that how it is supposed to work on this model?

--Donnie

Karl Shultz · **Posted:** Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:38 pm

Is there any way to get the bezel lettering on a watch repainted?

I'm wearing a Tag Indy 500, which I like a lot. I wear it every day. While most of the watch has worn very well, the lettering around the bezel, which is (was) painted, has worn very poorly. The paint is mostly gone out of that lettering, and that's making the watch look a little ratty. When I took it to the place of purchase (Fink's at Southpoint), they told me I was stuck with it. Which was disappointing.

Any suggestions?

David Edwards · **Posted:** Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:00 pm

Karl, most of them were anodized but I think you have a bezel with engraved numbers that the paint simply came out of them, it can be repainted. I believe the Indy 500 has a engraved style bezel with black lettering. If so, a paint pen is all you need or I will be happy to do with for you.

Donnie, a GMT II (and Explorer II) is quicket BUT not like typical Rolex's. In the first position, the hour hand will click around 1 hour at a time so you still have to do alot of turning to change the date. This is normal and there is no setting to change the date by itself.

1. In date set position (1 click), set date to the DAY BEFORE.
2. In the time set position (2 clicks), run the hands around until the date changes so you will know when midnight is and the 24 hour hand will be properly aligned.

buy a cheap watch winder and you won't have to set it all the time.

Karl Shultz · **Posted:** Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:08 pm

David Edwards wrote:

Karl, most of them were anodized but I think you have a bezel with engraved numbers that the paint simply came out of them, it can be repainted. I believe the Indy 500 has a engraved style bezel with black lettering. If so, a paint pen is all you need or I will be happy to do with for you.

Correct, the letters are inset into the bezel. All black, save for the "INDY 500," which is (was) red.

Paint pen, you say. Well...is this something that an amateur can do without it looking awful? Those letters are really, really small. It looks impossible to me to get the paint into the lettering, without getting it all over the surrounding areas. A touch up pen for a car, for example, has a ball end that is *way* larger than this lettering.

If there are any tips you can share, I'd sure appreciate it. If not, PM me your information. Maybe I'm better off handing this one off to a pro.

Once I've got it all fixed up, I'm going to get a cheap Timex or similar to wear while at an event, working on a car, etc.

Donnie Barnes · **Posted:** Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:11 pm

David Edwards wrote:

Donnie, a GMT II (and Explorer II) is quicket BUT not like typical Rolex's. In the first position, the hour hand will click around 1 hour at a time so you still have to do alot of turning to change the date. This is normal and there is no setting to change the date by itself.

1. In date set position (1 click), set date to the DAY BEFORE.
2. In the time set position (2 clicks), run the hands around until the date changes so you will know when midnight is and the 24 hour hand will be properly aligned.

buy a cheap watch winder and you won't have to set it all the time.

Thanks, that's what I needed to know. That's already how I do it when I need to kind of "reset" everything and get the date right (the day before trick). I have a winder, too, but it's just a PIA to load and unload it. I know, I know, I'm one lazy SOB. It's true.

I think if I sort out a band for it that I really like then I'll be more willing to live with the other minor problems and actually wear it some. My wrist changes sizes just enough with weather, body fat, hydration level, etc, that fixed bands are VERY tough to get to a size that I can live with. I seem to have found a happy medium with my Citizen, but that's just dumb luck more than anything. But a Nato style band for the Rolex might be just what the doctor ordered....

--Donnie

David Edwards · **Posted:** Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:27 pm

Donnie, if you get a chance, check out the Breitling Aerospace. Be sure it has the Aerospace bracelet too since it is offered with several bands. It has a spring loaded adjustment in the clasp so it wears the same all the time regardless of fluctuations in your wrist size. If you get one in Titanium, it's super light and you barely notice you're wearing a watch. They are heavily discounted online.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Mens-Breitling-Swiss-Aerospace-Chronometer-Watch-NR_W0QQitemZ330382046541QQcmdZViewItemQQptZWristwatches?hash=item4cec4df54d

This auction has some good pics of the band.

Donnie Barnes · **Posted:** Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:37 pm

Not bad, but I don't want another watch. I've got three and don't wear one every day as it is!

Gonna have to make due with what I've got.

--Donnie

Arthur McDonald · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 1:54 am **Posts:** 2052

Karl Shultz wrote:

Once I've got it all fixed up, I'm going to get a cheap Timex or similar to wear while at an event, working on a car, etc.

Personally, I recommend a Casio calculator watch. It's light weight contributes to quicker steering inputs.

Todd Breakey · **Posted:** Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:26 pm

David, do you have a store that you work at or do you work out of your home?

I have a few old pocket watches (some that are family watches) that I would like to get things fixed on and would rather have someone do the work that I...

a. know
b. trust
c. is local so I don't have to ship the watches
d. doesn't have his main shop that the flea market
e. takes pride in what he does.

David Edwards · **Posted:** Thu Dec 03, 2009 12:08 am

Todd, I have stores in Wilson and Greenville neirther of which is in a flea market. I have a fairly extensive amount of American pocket watch parts. Estimates are free and I will be happy to give you some history of the pieces you have.

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