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Does anyone have one these that they would be willing to let me borrow?



Long story...but it would be of great help to me.

_________________
Jim Pastorius
2008 Silverado VortecMax
1992 Camaro CMC#92
2002 BMW R1150R

2009 3rd Place CMC Mid-Atlantic Championship
2009 CMC Hyperfest Winner

I've got a red-x you can borrow

Another option, if there is an electrician in the house that would help me modify some pigtails to get the trailer connected to the house....I could use the help.

The issue is the trailer inlet is this:


The 30 amp receptacle in the house is this:


The extension cord plugs into the house just fine. No one in the area has the adapter and ordering one will get here after I head to Summit Point.

I guess I could cut the end off the extension cord and add a female end that would match to the trailer inlet.

Or replace the trailer inlet with with something tacked in from Home Depot that has the proper male end.

_________________
Jim Pastorius
2008 Silverado VortecMax
1992 Camaro CMC#92
2002 BMW R1150R

2009 3rd Place CMC Mid-Atlantic Championship
2009 CMC Hyperfest Winner

Jim,
Do you know for sure that both sides want/have 120V? Helping a friend wire a welder I've found that sometimes certain plugs have the 2nd phase in your home wired to the neutral spot creating 240V.

I'm not an electrician, but could help you if you want. I could maybe help out weds or thurs evening. Let me know.

I wired the 30 amp receptacle in the garage. It is a single phase 30 amp outlet. I had to be careful and not go with the 2 phase and end up sending 240 volts into the trailer.

I am really leaning towards just cutting the end off the new extension cord and putting a new female end on it.

_________________
Jim Pastorius
2008 Silverado VortecMax
1992 Camaro CMC#92
2002 BMW R1150R

2009 3rd Place CMC Mid-Atlantic Championship
2009 CMC Hyperfest Winner

Are you able to plug the trailer in once you get to race sites? I'd do whatever allows for the easiest setup there...

If your cord ends up being special I'd reconsider not changing it, and change your trailer instead so you could always go out and pick up a new one if your cord failed on you (although that probably shouldn't happen).

Let me know if I can help.

Jim, Michael is right, the important end is the one that plugs into the recpticle at the track. I think that the track will have plugs styles similar to the one in your trialer, not the one in your house. be sure before you whack off the end of your cable. On the trailer you could parallel both types of recepticles so you could plug either type into the trailer. Thats what they do with large boats. I am intimate with that type of hook up. the Hatteras had capability of wall recpticle, 30 amp, and 50 amp plug ins
on both sides of the boat in either 115 or 220 for the 30 and 50 amp recepticles.

Home Depot sells replacement cords for ranges, dryers etc. with various male ends and no female ends. They also sell female ends of various configurations. Just buy a female end to match your trailer and put it on the replacement cord. Just be sure to connect it properly to get 115V.
Camping and RV stores sell the adapter cords and/or plugs. Might try Overtons here or Bass Pro for an overnite ship.

_________________
SPIN or WIN!
there's no glory for going slow.

If you need help wiring one up, give me a call, I'll be home this afternoon.
I put The AC unit in the trailer and wired it up last weekend for DC ProSolo.
PS: I have an extra standard 15A plug configuration trailer inlet port if you want to do a parallel inlet setup like Bernie suggested.

_________________
SPIN or WIN!
there's no glory for going slow.

Should be pretty easy to wire up an adapter. I'm pretty sure the L5-30 twist-lock receptacle is available at HD. I have never looked for the NEMA TT-30 plug but I bet they have a mechanical one there too. Just buy both connectors, a short piece of rubberized bulk cord and you should be good to go.

I've made several 240v adapters this way and they are ALWAYS cheaper than ordering the molded versions online.

Chuck, I don't think HD will have a molded cable with that TT-30 connector, that's pretty specialized for RVs. All the molded power cords I have seen with the ring terminals on the other end are NEMA 14-30, 14-50, and 10-30 (which looks like the TT-30 but is 240v)

Wikipedia has a good site for deciphering the plug codes if anyone is curious:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector

_________________
Mike Whitney
whit32@gmail.com, 919-454-5445
V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1

What Mike said on the price thing. Plus, in my experience, the molded ones just fall apart relatively quickly anyway. The ones I've had my electricians made aren't nearly as pretty, but they have lasted a LOT better. And you certainly don't have to be an electrician to do a straight adapter cable like this...my guys are usually just handy enough and know where to get the right stuff easily enough that I just dump it on them.

I'm guessing Jim just grabbed a picture of something with the right plug end on it...I doubt he needs the screw-lock business. If that's the case, HD may have what he needs. Looks like the same twist-and-lock plug that generators use. Damn, those things are annoying.

As far as water-proofness of the adapters, I generally just make everything long enough that the plugs sit on the ground. Then carry a few stacking buckets. If you can't shove it under the trailer, turn a bucket upside down over it and put something on top to weigh it down.


--Donnie

If waterproofing a cord connection is a concern you can do like I do with my Xmas lights: Cut off both bottom corners of a ziplock sandwich bag just large enough to pass each cord end. Put in the cords and connect inside the bag. Zip the bag shut and twist tie or electrical tape the gathered corners around the cords. The ziploc allows you to open the bag and check for water as well as disconnect the connection and still keep it watertight while disconnected.

_________________
SPIN or WIN!
there's no glory for going slow.

A good idea for longer term connections, certainly. Especially with smaller wire. I do the bucket thing because some of my connections are big 50A monsters that are in those outdoor rated boxes with the big flip lid on them. You'd need a huge freezer bag for those! So the bucket is a little quicker and easier.

But still, I like your idea for the smaller ones, certainly.


--Donnie

I was hoping to avoid piecing one together, but no one has the adapters in stock.

So I think it will be off to the RV store over at New Bern Ave to get the proper ends. I think they have them in stock. I was not paying a lot of attention last night. Then make my own adapter.

I had better locate a 15amp to 30amp adapter too...Summit Point is questionable facilities

Thanks for all the feedback....very helpful.

_________________
Jim Pastorius
2008 Silverado VortecMax
1992 Camaro CMC#92
2002 BMW R1150R

2009 3rd Place CMC Mid-Atlantic Championship
2009 CMC Hyperfest Winner

I went to HD and was able to find one end of my home-made adapter. Added some 10/2 GA outdoor wire to the mix and I was half way there Tuesday night. The stupid plug was $34....

I had to stop at the RV place on New Bern Ave for the end. By the way, that place is creepy. It is like going into a used car dealer....you just know they are going to screw you.

So last night I assemble the home made adapter and tested my electrical work. Let's put it this way, the trailer did not burn down. My final lesson was learning the proper configuration of the distribution panel.

So now the trailer has AC and and a number of 15 amp outlets.

So now it is off to Summit Point and Hyperfest . And you know how things usually work out, I won't be able to get an electrical hookup

_________________
Jim Pastorius
2008 Silverado VortecMax
1992 Camaro CMC#92
2002 BMW R1150R

2009 3rd Place CMC Mid-Atlantic Championship
2009 CMC Hyperfest Winner