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 Post subject: Garage floor treatment/sealer?
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 2:02 pm 
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I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express.
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Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2003 7:08 pm
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Location: Raleigh NC
Looking for feedback from those who have sealed or coated their garage floor especially with epoxy type coatings:
What brand/type product did you use?
DIY or contracted?
Application method?
Satisfaction/problems/issues?
Amount used for ? size floor?
Was the floor new or old, smooth or rough?
If new concrete how long before you could coat it?
Preapplication prep needed?
How long after application before it was usable?
What would you do differently if you had it to do over?
Thanks!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 2:21 pm 
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I err on the side of being stupid
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Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2003 10:15 pm
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Location: Greenville, NC
Lots of floor tech on Honda Tech:

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=336313

Several THSCC contributors in the thread....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:17 pm 
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Location: lost but making good time
Also...

http://www.thsccforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=113

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 5:14 pm 
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Location: Durham, NC
Carl Fisher wrote:


Chuck,

I am on the thread above. I ended up using the Rustoleum kit that you can get at Home Depot/Lowes. I think it is one of the cheaper kits available. It is a two part epoxy + paint flakes that you can optionally throw down.

To answer your questions specifically...

* DIY
* Roller + brush for edges
* Very satisfied so far. Only minor issue is that I applied it in two stages with small amount over overlap. Overlap area is noticable due to higher level of gloss.
* 2.5 car kit worked great in my garage (2 car + workspace =~ 2.5 car)
* Floor was unsealed, but some small amounts of paint spills, stains from previous owner. Generally in very good condition.
* N/A
* I washed and scrubbed 2+ times. Used a scraper to get up "blob" sized paint drops. Soaked any oil spots multiple times to try to pull out oil. Used Muratic acid to etch floor (even though directions said to not use Muratic acid as they provided another acid in power form. I suspect it was weaker than the Muratic). Let dry totally before putting down epoxy!!
* Could walk on it in a day or so. Didn't put anything heavy (car, etc.) on for a week or more.
* Would do it again.


Extra comments...

1. Surface prep is the most important thing. Don't skimp.
2. See #1

I also used the paint flake stuff. Someone made a comment that I should not use it. That it would flake up itself. I found that if you spread it right after you applied the epoxy, and that the epoxy was not thin, that it would bond well enough. I don't think I have seen any of it flake up. I think the flakes does help keep it from being as slick. It IS slick when wet so be careful. It has been over a year now and I have not see any of it pull up. But then again, I am also not parking car in the garage. I have heard that hot tires can pull it up. I think if that happens, your prep work sucked.

If i was to do it over again, I might consider looking at a more expensive kit. I think some put a second clear coat on top of the base coat. It is not indestructable. So you can scratch it, etc.

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