THSCC Forums

So the BMW has the dreaded rear subframe tearing BS crap where the diff mount bolts tear through the rear sheetmetal. You have to pull the entire rear suspension/subframe/diff out and then weld in reinforcement plates and put everything back. Hopefully the warranty I got when I purchased the car covers it, as it looks to be a $900 or so repair, and I don't feel like doing that myself.

Mike recommended shadetree garage for the repair, but they are booked for the next 3 weeks. Any recommendations for someone else to do the repair? The warranty expires in 400 miles and 2 weeks, so I need to do something in the next few days.

If this isn't covered by the warranty for some reason. Any recommendations on purchasing a welder? I've always wanted to learn anyways

Thanks
-Tom

I have a welding machine in my garage closet - my dad was a welder. Not sure if it works, but you can use it if it does.

Can't help you with the purchase of a welder but I do know that Joel Heywood has been taking some classes. Maybe you could touch base with him. He might be able to help.

_________________
Todd Breakey
STS 42 - 1992 Sunburst Miata
Dammit!
"You souldn't play leap frog with a porcupine. You might get hurt." - Eliza

Borrow a welder.

I have a 120V MIG that you could use.

That said, auto sheet metal is one of the toughest things to learn on. It's way too thin to be easy.

Lots of people swear by stick welders for the auto body stuff.

Scott

Tom - can you share more about the failure? The only subframe problems I have heard of on E36 cars is when the subframe mount at the rear toe bushings (in front of the rear wheels) tear out. The only cars I have heard of this on are heavily tracked cars with either worn bushings or lots of suspension work.

The differential problem, on a street car, is a new one to me. What are the symptoms and how do you ckeck for it?

_________________
Mike Whitney
whit32@gmail.com, 919-454-5445
V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1

"The "subframe tearing" that you hear most about does not seem to be very common, though it does happen to be sure. What this is actually is the body of the car failing where the bolts that attach the rear suspension carrier (subframe) fasten."

Here is a informative thread
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... thread.php

Here is a pic of it


The "symptoms" are a "wiggle" of the rear end when you get on the gas as the rear subframe moves and a clunk when you get on the gas HARD and the broken off piece hits the body under the car. When I test drove the car I had a very slight wiggle that I attributed to those rear bushings as there was no clunking at all. The clunking happened about a month after buying the car. I guess that it was in the middle of braking and then fully busted. It wiggles much worse now then it used to.

The only good thing about all this, is that I got such a damn good deal on the car, that if I have to pay $900 for this and then $500 for the tranny, I'll still be under blue book value

-Tom

Ack! Don't scare me like that guys. I am however glad I went and read that thread....



Whew.... Panic Attack Averted.

The fix for the 3 series is to pull the rear subframe, suspension, and diff and weld these plates over the busted ass holes. Removal of the whole thing aint an issue. It would be a pain, but not something I *couldn't* do. Welding of the plates on the other hand. I'm also worried about making sure they are straight etc etc.

-Tom

I would call Dr. Schimmel and ask if he makes house calls.

Mike <- who is going to be putting his car up on stands this weekend to check the subframe mounts!

_________________
Mike Whitney
whit32@gmail.com, 919-454-5445
V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1

"Oh snap dawg"

Totally forgot about mr. shimmel. I will call him and find out if he can make house calls.

Otherwise, I spoke to truitt at shade tree. He will charge me $1500 to fix this crap and locate/install a used tranny for me. Even with that hit, its still not too bad.

I spoke to the dealership I bought it from and leaned on him to see how they feel that they sold me a car that had more then 20% "structual body damage" when they sold it to me. He is calling the place HE got it from and seeing if they will give a refund. I'm not expecting anything though. If they give my my $$ back, I'll take it. Otherwise, I'm posting it tonight in the auto trader (specifiying what is wrong with it) and trying to get my $$ back out of it. I have an appt with shade tree for June 1st to do the work on it. If I don't sell it by then, I'll have them fix it and then it will become the coolest beater evar for <$4700

-Tom

So Mr. Shimmel does make house calls and the price is VERY reasonable. I just need to provide the welder.

Hmmmm...

The repair for this is $900 at shade tree. It would cost me $300 in parts and labor to have mr. shimmel do the welding. Its about 10-12 hours of labor for a "bmw mechanic" to do the rest of it. Thats 18-20 for me. Is it worth 2 weeks of weeknights wresting with the car to save $600????????

-Tom

Personally I'd pay the money.

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Karl S.
2014 Baby, 2014 House, 2013 Ford Focus ST, 2013 BMW 328i, 1994 Mercedes E320
(Insert passive aggressive signature line here)

I think you need to do it yourself if for no other reason than to bond with this special car you bought that happens to have some "excessive lightness" engineered in. Kind of like a Lotus I used to own . . . except the labor for various projects would have been a whole lot more $$$$ (1981 dollars at that) if I could have even found someone to do the work properly.

_________________
Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

Contact Dave Davis.
He does all the BMW work for Alantic Auto Exchange, has ton's of
experience, and is one of our track sponsors. Contact info on
the sponsor section of the Track THSCC web site or in the H&T

_________________
Mark Vitacco
THSCC TT Chairman
mvitacco@bellsouth.net