THSCC Forums

I've never heard of any major problems with the Miata engines that haven't already been mentioned. The early model years had issues with the crank nose. That wouldn't apply to yours. And I think someone mentioned something about the #4 bearing issue that the '99s had. Mazda did a recall on it. So it should be fixed. I had a '99 when they did the recall, took the car to Al Smith and they checked it and gave the car a clean bill of health. God, I miss that car!!

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Todd Breakey
STS 42 - 1992 Sunburst Miata
Dammit!
"You souldn't play leap frog with a porcupine. You might get hurt." - Eliza

I guess I should have clarified the question to something more like: How high should the odometer go on well taken care of Miata before I should worry about spending time on the rev limiter - OR - simply put, should I be able to autocross this car (assuming good general maintenance) well into the 140k mile range? For a CRX, my experience is Yes to the above, but maybe not, say, the average '99 model Chrysler.

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Dustin Fredrickson
-- I'm a nobody --

Since I traded both my 96 and 99 Miatas in at the 40K mile mark, I can't anwer the high mileage question. I can, however, tell you that my old '81 Mazda GLC had 175,000 miles on it when I ran the thing out of oil (I left the cap off) and it sent the crank shaft out the end of the block. I was young and stupid then. Now I remember to put the damn oil cap back on!!! So I guess you could say that with proper maintenance, you should get ALOT of mileage out of your car.

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Todd Breakey
STS 42 - 1992 Sunburst Miata
Dammit!
"You souldn't play leap frog with a porcupine. You might get hurt." - Eliza

My '93 MX-3 had 110K when I sold it to my sister. My niece drove it two years after that and traded it with about 160K on it. That was three years ago and I saw it still running in Rocky Mount last summer.

Best car I've ever owned maintenance wise. In 110K miles I only replaced the front pads once and one CV axle. Nothing else.

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Vincent Keene
'06 Ford Mustang GT (track rat)
'15 Dodge Charger R/T (yeah, it's got a HEMI!)
'07 Ford Fusion SE (205,000 miles and counting)
'98 Chevy Z-24 (retired)
'93 Acura Integra (Team SWB 24HOL Car)

I wouldn't worry about a Miata motor over the 100k mark. With regular decent maintenance, they should last well past 200k with no problems. While they might be getting a little soft performance-wise at that point, they are as bulletproof as any motor you'll find in a production car. Assuming you don't get one with the well documented early short nose crank or late #4 thrust bearing issue...

Dustin I'm sure you've been surfing on www.miata.net right? There is TONS of information on that site and the forums. I've read so much my eyes are permanently crossed.

Jim's a good source when you're short on time though.

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Vincent Keene
'06 Ford Mustang GT (track rat)
'15 Dodge Charger R/T (yeah, it's got a HEMI!)
'07 Ford Fusion SE (205,000 miles and counting)
'98 Chevy Z-24 (retired)
'93 Acura Integra (Team SWB 24HOL Car)

IIRC correctly Rob Lupella's Miata is a very early example. Seems none the worse for about 14 years of use (excepting that rear "window"). Rob's times are improving too.
To some extent its all probability, but the odds are in your favor.

I've purchased two previously owned Miata's. Wouldn't let mileage be a deciding factor on a well maintained one. Crate engines are cheap too. The 1.8L motor was turbocharged in a different Mazda product so its pretty stout, even has those oil sprayers to cool the piston bottoms.
The '99 had isolated bearing and coil pack problems. A new coil pack from Mazdaspeed is about $150. Not a big deal.
Ever notice how many folks:
1.) Lament selling a Miata ?
2.) Own more than one ?
There's a reason ...

Frank

Don't hate me 'cause I'm beautiful...

Just ran across this thread. Nobody can accuse me of spending my life on this forum.... If you're looking for a 99 sport package, as was suggested earlier, I believe the identifying traits are: chin spoiler, Nardi 3-spoke steering wheel and NO cruise control, crank windows, cloth seats, 15" wheels, Bilstiens, and a small rear spoiler. I think 99% were dark green. This model will have the Torsen. All 2000's came with power windows, but otherwise I think the sport package was otherwise the same. I spent half the summer of 2002 looking for one of these and then decided I was just too tall, after letting a sweet deal on a 98 Cobra slip through my fingers...

On the other hand, there is the 2000 Tenth Anniversary Edition (10AE), which has a six-speed, leather, the Torsen and I believe ABS. Whether the 6 speed is better than the 5-speed is up to folks like Eric P to advise, but it just so happens that our own Bill Gratton has one of these for sale in the Swap & Sell section. As the long-timers know, Bill pretty much stunk the place up before he bought this car and became instantly fast.

While my first preference would be a 1999 Sport (if I was looking for a Miata) I would seriously consider a 1999 10AE. And, a 2000 Miata would be fine, too. The year I co-drove the car with Tim, he pretty much dominated the class and it was bone stock except for a sway bar. And, he ran 205 Kumhos all season until nationals....he ended up 2nd at Nationals and coned away the Pro Solo Championship. We did have the coil pack or whatever problem, but we seemed to be the only autox car in the country with that issue....all the problems with that particular car motivated the purchase of the Spyder. Anyway, the 10AE is a really nice car with all the goodies. Most of the 10AEs did not have ABS. While ABS would be nice it would not be a deal breaker for me. I don't think flat spotting would be much of an issue. The 6-speed v. 5-speed is a toss-up since it's course dependent.

The 6-speed is better on tighter courses, Pro Solo courses, and anywhere where the 5-speeds have to go to 3rd gear. Either way, if you drive well you will do well. I had problems missing shifts becauses of the tighter gates, but it was not my car, so I didn't have much seat time in it. After driving the 6-speed, I always thought the 5-speeds felt a little soft down low. The 10AEs were written off as not being as competitive as the 1999 Sports due to weight and the tranny. Tim & I (to this day) disagree with that belief and feel the car is still extremely competitive. A well driven and well set-up 10AE could win Nationals. And, FWIW, a well setup and driven 1994 - 1997 Miata is still capable of trophying at national events. Those cars probably give up only 5 tenths on most 45 - 50 second courses.

Eric

Thanks for all the replies. We did end up getting one - a 2000 LS. While this car does not have the stiffer suspension bits right now, an advantage of the 2000 model year is that it could be legally upgraded since the LS's could be ordered with the suspension package (unlike the 1999 Sports, which were only the stripped down car. The 2000 offers us the "conveniences" (i.e. Bose stereo, CC, Power everything, Leather) of the LS with the ability to legally upgrade suspension in the future with only the slight weight penalty of the LS, and less grippy leather seats. For our non-national aspirations, we saw this as the best compromise between a daily driver and a good autocross car.

FWIW, I would have gotten a 10AE as well, but they seem to command a bit higher price than we wanted to spend.

Now for the tires, shocks, and an allignment before the next event. Gotta love "new" cars.

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Dustin Fredrickson
-- I'm a nobody --

Welcome to the fraternity of owners of the most fun car on the road! Get ready to have a big grin on your face all the time and finding all the twistiest back road routes. Even going to the neighborhood store will turn into a couple hour drive to get there and back!!!
Miatas tend to be tail happy especially with the base suspension unless you put a heavier front swaybar on it. If you're not planning on upgrading the springs, rear sway etc to the sport pkg parts for a while, I'd recommend a 1" solid front bar to balance the car with the parts you currently have on it. I used the Flying Miata front bar on our 99 PEP pkg and am very pleased. FM only lists it as part of a front and rear bar pkg, but if you give them a call, they will sell you just the front bar. It was ~ 125.00 IIRC. Changing the bar is a fairly simple 1/2 hr job, and no realignment is necessary. If you go with the Sport pkg rear bar and springs, then the Racing Beat 1-1/4" hollow bar is most popular. Note that the heavier bar will make the car push badly with the base rear bar, and the heavier bar is noted for cracking the OEM frame mounts, which should be reinforced by a method allowed by the rules. If you go to the heavier bar, I have a set of stock legal reinforced mounts I bought for ours but have never used I'd be willing to sell.
I'd recommend the Koni Sports single adjustable shocks. Plenty of adjustment range for AX, just slightly stiffer than OEM at the soft setting for cruizing, easily installed and adjusted. Give GH Sharp a call for best prices and service on Konis.
I'd also recommend putting in a Hard Dog Hard Core rollbar single or double diagonal bracing (your choice, we have the DD for it's better rearward visibility) for the chassis stiffening and safety it provides, and it makes the Miata look like a race car rather than the "other" group it's popular with (think "Will and Grace"). The Hard Core is also legal for track use, and for use with harnesses.
Now start making plans to attend "Miatas at the Gap" the last weekend in July. Over 500 Miatas gather annually on the TN-NC border to run the road thru Deal's Gap, a drive it yourself rollercoaster ride of world class proportions, socialize and show off their cars.

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SPIN or WIN!
there's no glory for going slow.

Congrats on your purchase, sounds like a wise choice. I think Chuck meant to say the Racing Beat 1 1/8th inch bar, not the 1 1/4. They do make a 1.25, but that is used for the 2001 cars and up since they have more body roll due to their taller tires. The Racing Beat 1 1/8th inch is probably the most popular bar amongst autocrossers, but the 1.0 inch solid that Chuck uses is probably just as good.

Eric