brake pad advice for the mustang

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Tue Jul 20, 2010 8:51 pm

OK, I've signed up for my 4th HPDE at CMP in Oct. In my last event in the BMW at VIR, I ran some modest front pads and stock rears in the 328. Once I had a few laps, the brakes were crap. I don't want that same feeling again in the mustang. I'm planning on taking another set of stock front rotors w/ me in case they are needed. Pretty cheap to buy blanks. Anyway, I need a recommendation for brake pads for the mustang for CMP. I haven't weighed the car, but I imagine it's around ~3450 pounds. I'll weight it shortly.

What say ye? Carbotec? Hawk? Performance friction? I need some good stopping power. I'm planning on both front and rears.

TIA!

Jason Tower · **Joined:** Wed Jun 11, 2008 3:31 pm **Posts:** 1173

are you planning to have a dedicated set of rotors/pads for track use that you'll switch when needed? or just switch pads but not rotors? or switch neither?

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Tue Jul 20, 2010 9:03 pm

Jason Tower wrote:

are you planning to have a dedicated set of rotors/pads for track use that you'll switch when needed? or just switch pads but not rotors? or switch neither?

Good question. If needed I can develop a set of dedicated pads/rotors, but had planned on just swapping out pads if I could get away w/ it. I'm open to suggestions considering I have some time before the event. May even hit the salvage yard for a set dedicated rotors. I'd prefer the pads be new or next to new.

Jason Tower · **Joined:** Wed Jun 11, 2008 3:31 pm **Posts:** 1173

save the used rotors for street use, track time requires the best brake components you can manage. if you're willing to swap both pads and rotors, get oem blanks and full on track pads and run them as a matched set. i like pfc06 because they last forever (pfc01 are excellent but last about half as long) but hawk ht10/dtc60 are good as are carbotech xp8/10/12.

edit: forgot to mention (but graham did below) that if you mix pads on the same rotor try to stick with one brand. that ensures the shape matches (they should use the same backing plate) and the compounds are generally compatible.

Graham Jagger · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 12:53 am **Posts:** 1718

Rodney,

What do you run now? To keep those rotors and just swap pads from street/autocross to track. If you stay within the same brand it is doable. Some brands don't work well together.

For example. I ran stock Z06 pads (made by PBR) and then swapped to Carbotech XP10/8 for track. They seemed content sharing the same rotors. Then I ran XP8 on the street and just threw the XP10s on the front for track time. Run their AX6 pads for AX then use XP10/8 or XP12/10 for track. That you can get away with.

If you run Hawk HPS or HP+ for street/ax. Then consider HT14/10 or DTC70/60 setup for track.

The Hawk DTC are hard on rotors but last longer. The Carbo XP10/8 combo is nice and even on the heavier Stang at CMP should last a 20 minute session just fine.

If you can hook up brake ducts, down to spindles. That would be good.

You can drive XP10/8 on the street and commute to the track with them. I wouldn't do it daily driving. Waste of expensive pads. I drive to the track on the Hawk DTC70/60 setup. They are hard on rotors when cold.

Either way you always carry spare front rotors. They go quick on heavier/faster cars with more aggressive pads.

Their are other choices and combinations. I've tried the above. I like the Hawk setup better for wear/tear and solid braking. The Carbotechs are nicer to modulate but wear faster. Rotors are cheaper than pads so keep that in mind...

Also if your front calipers flex like they do in the Vette. They will taper pads fairly quickly. To get more out of them. Swap the pads across the wheels in front each day. I'm not sure if tapering is an issue in the Mustang.

Just some thoughts. Have fun.

Graham

jimpastorius · **Posted:** Wed Jul 21, 2010 7:02 am

What tires are you planning on running? If you are on street tires, I would not suggest aggressive pads like the DC60/70. Plus factor in you probably will not be turning your abs off...I would.

This being only your fourth HPDE and in a new car, I would suggest something moderate front, like the blacks and then hps in the rear. Hell, you could even get away with great street pads in the rear.

You forgot to mention brake fluid. I would highly recommend the Castrol SRF fluid. I would spend my money there and go with a little more moderate pad up front.

Do not put an aggressive pad on the rear...solid rear axle cars hate that.

Kevin Harvey · **Posted:** Wed Jul 21, 2010 8:36 am

Like I said in the other thread, I ran and recommend a Carbotech XP10/10 setup. On street tires, you are going to be able to induce ABS at will, but the stopping power will be there. As well as heat resistance and longevity. On the street tires, you are not going to see extreme heat, so no need in XP12s.

-Kevin

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Wed Jul 21, 2010 8:37 am

FYI. In early 2001 I ran my brand new 2001 GT Mustang with full tread GY OEM tires at VIR South. Probably ran the equivalent of 1 relatively "easy" (for me) session, 1 medium, and 1 hard session. Pads were Carbotech . . . maybe Panther Plus up front and Panther in back????. Rears wore faster but both front and rear pads and the rotors were "well used". They might have been good for another session or two but certainly not to start another HPDE or to use on the street. Between brakes and tires that event cost me almost $1K. :cry:

Are the rear pads and rotors on an S197 a pain to change like the earlier Mustangs due to the reluctant adjuster for the parking brake system (hard to get the piston to screw out)?

Michael Westerfield · **Posted:** Wed Jul 21, 2010 8:56 am

Rodney, GRM did an article on the S197 and a track day car a few years back called "Track star". I have it scanned and could send it if you like. They put some waste-of-money replacement rotors on the front that I wouldn't bother doing, however they did notice the car used quite a bit of rear pad. I would budget in for a set of rear pads along with fronts. Also, I've only just started looking for these parts, but http://www.newtakeoff.com/ has rotors for front and rear for $80 total before shipping. Autozone or similar may have cheaper?

Kevin Harvey · **Posted:** Wed Jul 21, 2010 9:33 am

Guys, the rear pads on these cars (newer Mustangs and Cobras) get used up when the traction control is left on. The system induces a misfire in the ignition as well as uses the rear brakes to settle the car and whichever tire is spinning faster than the other.

Turn off the nannies or drive smooth.

-Kevin

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Wed Jul 21, 2010 9:49 am

Kevin Harvey wrote:

Guys, the rear pads on these cars (newer Mustangs and Cobras) get used up when the traction control is left on. The system induces a misfire in the ignition as well as uses the rear brakes to settle the car and whichever tire is spinning faster than the other.

Turn off the nannies or drive smooth.
-Kevin

Could be but I only used traction control a couple of times to try it in the relatively few laps that were wet coming out of Oak Tree. Other than that it was off. For me it didn't really reduce the "spin inside tire, catch oversteer" concern on corner exit and it required a big lift to get power back for the straight. A little "throttle modulation" worked MUCH better.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Wed Jul 21, 2010 12:08 pm

In response to everyone’s queries, I presently have the following setup…

Stock rotors and rear pads. Running Carbotec bobcats up front and I currently do not swap them out.

When I attend the HPDE, I plan on using ATE blue since I have 2 unopened cans I need to use. As for tires, I have my old set of kumho V700’s I need to finish burning up. I don’t want to use my normal streets or my autox tires in an HPDE.

So, based on that info, any changes in recommendations?

Jason Tower · **Joined:** Wed Jun 11, 2008 3:31 pm **Posts:** 1173

ate super blue will eventually dye your reservoir blue which some people dislike. gold is the same stuff but w/o blue dye.

cmp is very hard on brakes, suggest bringing spare pads and maybe rotors. you're gonna need them eventually anyway and it might save you from missing half a day if they burn up or crack. i never go to the track without them.

steve remchak · **Posted:** Wed Jul 21, 2010 5:58 pm

(1) turn off the Nanny

(2) Carbotech XP 10's

i ran my Z06 with 10s on the front and 8s on the rear i believe. (Graham ?) street tire Michelin PS2. now we all know i was ah-skeer'd of that car and did not push it much but no issues with that combo. drove to the track and back home on the tires and pads no issue.

if Kevin says XP10s all the way around you should be good with that bit of wisdom. :wink:

of course doesn't a Cobra have IRS?

(3) bring new rotors for all 4 wheels. cheap insurance.

(4) brake ducts, brake ducts, brake ducts

i have never run thru a full set of new pads at any event, especially in Yellow Group with three sessions a day. granted my 328 weighs 600 pounds less than your car Rodney, but still.

Arthur McDonald · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 1:54 am **Posts:** 2052

Rodney, How are you bleeding your brakes? Are any special tools or techniques required due to the ABS?

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brake pad advice for the mustang

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