THSCC Forums

I guess some of you missed the point (they all drive Subarus too...hmmm). The point is in TIR the PAX is based a lot more on than just tires. The PAX is based upon a car and driver like Piccone. For noob, it is wise to take a look see at a well prepped car and the cost before jumping in half-ass.

If Mike and Aaron are running BS....there is not question where you should go. If you want to get good, the chance to compete against those two yahoos will benefit you more than any part you spend money on. And it is FREE.

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Jim Pastorius
2008 Silverado VortecMax
1992 Camaro CMC#92
2002 BMW R1150R

2009 3rd Place CMC Mid-Atlantic Championship
2009 CMC Hyperfest Winner

I know there are lots of people who think everyone should start off in stock class when they start autoxing, regardless of the car. Now here's where that logic falls apart... you have an M3!!! It's one of the fastest stock cars around. Cars aren't created equal, even when they're stock; BS M3 = DSP 325is - right, Mike? So if he had a 325is, would you tell him to run it in DS, or in DSP?

If you really want to start off slow & work your way up, you should sell the M3, buy an HS car, run it in TIR first & then run it in HS with R compounds, learn how to drive it, then sell it & move up to something in GS, then sell that & move up to DS, then sell that & move up to ES, then sell that & move up to CS, then sell that and buy back your M3, run it in TIR with BS index (just like you did with all the other cars before it), then put R compounds on it and run BS, then you can move up to BSP.

Just trying to put things into perspective here.


(oh, and before anyone points out that I skipped FS - I know. )

Also - I started off in STS (with a REALLY weak "setup" ). I've had a lot of fun, and I don't think I've done too badly in PAX, either - which for STS is based on the Civic, not even the slower car that I was using.

Basically what I'm saying is you should just ignore all of us & go with your own instincts.

I am not beating the drum for everyone to start off in HS. Nor would I ever suggest your "logical" flow.

The guy wants a house. All his car has that is legal are some springs. I bet the springs are only to lower the car and are probably worse than the stock M3 springs for handling.

Based upon his situation, the cheapest way to have fun is to run stock in BS or TIR, legally

Plus the best competition for him to improve is BS. Hey, no worry about PAX when you run head-to-head with two very good drivers. Can not ask for more than that.

_________________
Jim Pastorius
2008 Silverado VortecMax
1992 Camaro CMC#92
2002 BMW R1150R

2009 3rd Place CMC Mid-Atlantic Championship
2009 CMC Hyperfest Winner

hrmm yeh i'm leaning toward BS or BS in TIRE.

another thing i just thought of is if i'm BS then i need to autox on my OEM wheels (staggarded 7.5,8.5).. gar i wanted them for my dailys because the current dailys are some cheap crap that would be good autox wheels..

once again, gaaaahhh

Um, you get two throw away events + test and tune. How about drive at the Test and tune with what you got, and compare full course times from that to the rest of the field. See if you like the way the car feels, and if you feel like you 'have' to correct/fix something on the car. Make your decision from there.

If you are hardcore about 'driver, driver driver', go BS. If you want to tinker and see how the car does on a DD setup, go STU. If you want to throw crazy mods at it, go BSP.

Either way, you have a little more time than you think to make a decision. Keep in mind that well driven M3s are competitve in STU.

My two cents.

- dow

From Nationals results:

Street Touring Ultra Trophies: 7 Drivers: 24

1 T 62.888 64.617(1) DNF Kansas City 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX Branden Burkhart 13 Falken 125.316

2 T 68.211 66.610(2) 63.790 Susquehann 1995 BMW M-Tricycle Michael C Neary 27 Falken 125.482

3 T 62.847 65.865(1) 67.194(1) Northeast O 2004 Subaru STI Jeffrey Vogel 199 Falken 125.696

4 T 62.457 63.074 69.735(3) Texas Regio 2004 Subaru WRX STI Tim Bergin 191 Falken 125.719

5 T 63.632 64.216 DNF Kansas Reg 2004 Subaru WRX STi Adam Cuquet
34 Bridgestone 125.736

6 T 64.430(1) 62.489 65.709 Texas 1997 BMW M3 Heavy Terry Fair 194 Falken 125.808

7 T 64.838 63.292 65.095(1) Texas Regio 2005 Subaru WRX STi Paul Magyar 66 Falken 125.854

8 62.632 64.048 67.588(1) New Engla 1999 BMW M3 Max Norton 71 Kumho 125.954

9 63.568 63.461 67.170(1) Western Mi 2003 Mitsubishi Evo David Heinrich 76 Kumho 126.204

10 61.802 61.900 63.230 Atlanta 1997 BMW M3 LTW Brian Hanchey 94 Falken 126.447

Yeah, I think you could say that.

That's definitely the downside of Tire class.

If you reeeeeally are trying to pinch pennies to buy a home ( I know the feeling all too well), buy some ES100's for daily driving and autocross like Mike said. You'd be surprised, the grip isn't that bad for the $.

Personally, I like Jim's idea; sell the goodies and buy tires and wheels. You don't want to be wondering what you could have done with R comps do ya? That is going on the assumption you're RWD "experienced". I've been driving front drive rice boxes for 5 years, so I'd run street tires for a while to learn the car.

Either way, it sound like you're going to have a fun season with the new toy.

Or, you could just destroy all on street tires, and hear the R-comp guys complain more about 'cheater tire' this and 'M3 hack' that.

Oh, and that is as you are driving home on street tires without having to change tires in the 110 degree heat and without a silly tire trailer/R-comps in your car.

There is something nice about 'set it and forget it' at autoXes

- dow

So true! I thought I was going to puke at Greenville when I was changing tires on the blacktop. Gawd that sucked!

Amen.

arrive, unload car, recheck tire pressures (that were already increased at the gas station just before I got to the site), adjust Konis (if so equipped), relax.

man thats true too. i about died last time i changed wheels at greenville. hah

once again, gaaahhh

There is no need to jump right into r-comps. Put the money aside from eBay for a rainy day. Get a good set of street tires on the stock rims. Run against Aaron and Mike in BS. Now when you close the gap to 1.5-2 seconds on a 60 second course, then you are ready to move to r-comps. You have figured the car out.

I know the 1.5-2 seconds is an old rule of thumb. But it is a measuring stick. Maybe reduce it to 1-1.5 seconds on a 60 second course.

Now when you decide to make changes you have a good benchmark to go back to. Did the change work or more tinkering.

I would not suggest throwing r-comps on the car until you have run it a few times. Beware, you will never want to go back. They are like crack. The good news, a set of V710's will out last the THSCC season. Figure anywhere from 100-120 runs divided by 4, that is 30 events you are running next year

_________________
Jim Pastorius
2008 Silverado VortecMax
1992 Camaro CMC#92
2002 BMW R1150R

2009 3rd Place CMC Mid-Atlantic Championship
2009 CMC Hyperfest Winner

yeh.. i guess running BS and having to use the OEM wheels (which are a little beat up) would save me the hassle of refinishing them.

so yeh, i think the plan as of now is i'll just run the car w/ street wheels/tires for the first two events and hopefully a school so i can figure this thing out.. then i'll worry about going to street tires or Rcomps

thanks all

You have to use OEM sized wheels, not actual OEM wheels.

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91 Jetta GLI STS/DSP 111
85 Porsche 944 ASP 11
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