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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2005 8:54 pm 
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How many cars have YOU owned?

Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2003 9:22 am
Posts: 114
Location: Durham
OK so my reading comprehension isn't the best, but hey thats alright if it means my LSD works. :D I'll try the service manual test this weekend.



Here is the FSM test:
The shop manual states to test a VLSD you put a torque wrench on the hub (wheel in the air) and turn 90 degrees with 11 ft lbs of torque (car in gear). This should take no less than 4 seconds. If less then you have either an open diff or the VLSD is toast. Another test for a good VLSD is to jack up the rear with both rear wheels in the air. A good VLSD will turn both rear wheels in the same direction when manually turning the drive shaft. The open unit (or toasted VLSD) will turn the wheels in the opposite directions. There is no rebuild kit for the VLSD and the unit is completely sealed so you can't even get inside it short of cutting it

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 1:20 am 
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Got Powah?
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Dan Ecclestone wrote:
OK so my reading comprehension isn't the best, but hey thats alright if it means my LSD works. :D I'll try the service manual test this weekend.



Here is the FSM test:
The shop manual states to test a VLSD you put a torque wrench on the hub (wheel in the air) and turn 90 degrees with 11 ft lbs of torque (car in gear). This should take no less than 4 seconds. If less then you have either an open diff or the VLSD is toast. Another test for a good VLSD is to jack up the rear with both rear wheels in the air. A good VLSD will turn both rear wheels in the same direction when manually turning the drive shaft. The open unit (or toasted VLSD) will turn the wheels in the opposite directions. There is no rebuild kit for the VLSD and the unit is completely sealed so you can't even get inside it short of cutting it


Drill a hole in it, drain & fill with some rheomagnetic fluid, and JB Weld some ginormous electromagnets to the case hooked up to a potentiometer on the dash. Good times.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 9:35 am 
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Nay
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Location: Raleighwood
MikeWhitney wrote:

Drill a hole in it, drain & fill with some rheomagnetic fluid, and JB Weld some ginormous electromagnets to the case hooked up to a potentiometer on the dash. Good times.


Drill a hole in it, drain and fill with JB weld. You will have a real tight limited slip. :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 10:26 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2004 11:27 pm
Posts: 176
Location: Wilmington
Dan Ecclestone wrote:
Another test for a good VLSD is to jack up the rear with both rear wheels in the air. A good VLSD will turn both rear wheels in the same direction when manually turning the drive shaft. The open unit (or toasted VLSD) will turn the wheels in the opposite directions.


Mine actually passed this test last time I checked. Don't know why it wouldn't if I checked it now... :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 11:17 am 
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I HATE hatchbacks!

Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2003 11:03 am
Posts: 11818
Location: Carolina Beach, NC
VLSDs wear out over time. Especially when seeing autocross use.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 12:27 am 
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I killed the wabbit
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Joined: Wed Sep 08, 2004 8:50 pm
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its getting there.....

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mmm.. EP goodness...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 10:22 am 
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JACKASS!!!
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Adam Ligon wrote:
MikeWhitney wrote:
May not tell you anything on a VLSD, since the force to turn it will vary with the relative difference (F proportional to v). Initial force is probably zero.
.


But who would want Goo as the LSD medium anyway :lol:


Resisting the urge to type "Ron Jeremy" has proved futile. :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 4:33 pm 
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You gotta race the truck
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Location: Cary
Kevin Hassell wrote:
its getting there.....

Image
Image

mmm.. EP goodness...


You know this was a thread about ST2 cars, not E right?? :P

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 9:28 pm 
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I killed the wabbit
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oh.. i read it like "updates on my st2 project, whats up with your ride (in general)" but oh well..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 2:07 pm 
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How many cars have YOU owned?

Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2003 9:22 am
Posts: 114
Location: Durham
I was thinking STT class when I posted, but lets open it up to everyone :D

I'm aways interested to hear what mods people are doing to their cars... so please feel free to join in :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 5:30 pm 
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Just call me Bo

Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2003 6:39 pm
Posts: 1431
Location: SYPHAJFD
My car is currently the fastest thing in my driveway, town, state and even the whole country-- on jackstands.... :(

I've currently got the entire suspension off the car and I'm waiting on a few parts. I haven't done anything about performance parts yet but expect to make some decisions within the next week or so. I hate it when work gets in the way of having fun!

I'll probably go with something very similar to the standard STS EF Civic setup but I'm still working on the details. My gut tells me to soften up the rear springs a hair since the CRXs (and especially the '88s) seem to rotate better than the Civics.

Ryan, are you planning on using polyurathane bushings in your car? If so, what are you using for the rear? With the odd (at least for the US) rear suspension in the '88 CRX, nobody seems to make a master kit. Or have I just missed it? I know to stay away from the large rear lower control arm bushing (or at the very least, use the one from Mugen assuming I can find one for the '88 ) in theory. I've still got a lot of research to do.

I don't plan on having everything ready for the test-n-tune so the first event of the year will probably be the maiden voyage. I have a feeling it will be fairly ugly considering I haven't driven a FWD car in anger in a loooooong time. I'm hoping for at least a top-10 finish in my class. :P

Jim


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 12:53 am 
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I err on the side of being stupid
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Posts: 4743
Location: Greenville, NC
JamesFeinberg wrote:
Ryan, are you planning on using polyurathane bushings in your car? If so, what are you using for the rear? With the odd (at least for the US) rear suspension in the '88 CRX, nobody seems to make a master kit. Or have I just missed it? I know to stay away from the large rear lower control arm bushing (or at the very least, use the one from Mugen assuming I can find one for the '88 ) in theory. I've still got a lot of research to do.
Jim


Yes, I have the Energy Suspension Master Kit ready to go into the car. The kit is "supposed" to work with 88-91, we shall see..... I havent got that far yet. My car is the the fastest car on jackstands as well. :roll:

BTW, my research has revealed that with the Rear Trailing Arm bushing Mugen = stock honda part. Mugen claims a 120 stiffer but most people disagree and they look identical. You can buy the stock part online.

BTW^2- I assumed the same as you Jim, I softened the rear rates for my car as well, I am starting out with 400f/450r. Once I get used to that, I am my jump to 450f/550r. I also dont have a big rear bar, yet. I am trying to find something lighter than the ST bar and cheaper than the Saner bar.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 11:18 am 
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I got a SUX2000!
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Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2003 12:07 am
Posts: 2443
Location: In the garage, under a big old Mercedes
Ryan Holton wrote:
Yes, I have the Energy Suspension Master Kit ready to go into the car. The kit is "supposed" to work with 88-91, we shall see..... I havent got that far yet. My car is the the fastest car on jackstands as well. :roll:

(snip...)

I am trying to find something lighter than the ST bar and cheaper than the Saner bar.


The master kit should work except for the control-arm end of the rear shock mounts. All the other stuff, AFAIK, should be the same. Are sperical bearings legal in ST2? If so, the OPM radius rod bearings are supposed to be off the hook.

The Saner bar, as far as I can tell, is the one to get. It's among the thickest, is adjustable, and has heim jointed end links. It's a nice piece.

And I'm pretty sure I've got a faster Honda than either of you...also on jackstands...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 11:44 am 
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Just call me Bo

Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2003 6:39 pm
Posts: 1431
Location: SYPHAJFD
Karl Shultz wrote:
The master kit should work except for the control-arm end of the rear shock mounts. All the other stuff, AFAIK, should be the same.


I saw a couple of posts on honda-tech that suggested the rear bushings for the '88 CRX were different. There were a couple of people that installed the "master kit" and claimed they couldn't use the majority of the rear bushings. This was in the "EF" forum and not the rr/auto-x forum so I'm very suspicious of the information.

Karl Shultz wrote:
And I'm pretty sure I've got a faster Honda than either of you...also on jackstands...


Well, technically you're not eligible for the Honda jack stand race since you own an Acura. I think I saw that in the rule book somewhere... :)

Jim


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 12:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 30, 2003 11:22 am
Posts: 1500
Location: Having Jeb mount my rubberbands
Well some of you saw my post in the vendor's forum talking about my engine swap.

Here is what is done to the car so far...

H22A engine
Fidanza 8lb flywheel
Quaife LSD
Megan Header ( Just something to get the car moving)
VTEC model brakes

In the next month or so...
Intake
Energy Suspension Poly Bushings (hopefully the Birthday fairy will bring them..... *cough* Stephen *cough*)

Hopefully by the end of the year:
Koni & GC setup
Racing Dubs

I'll be running in SM.

Shameless pic

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