Eric Peterson wrote:
I know there are multiple Mustang experts in the club so I thought this would be a good place to get some advice. A friend of mine is interested in getting a 2006 - 08ish GT 5 speed to compete in FS. I saw that 07 GTs came in P3 and P8 (last trophy) at Nats. What does he need to look for and stay away from in his search?
What are the best/most affordable shock options. Other that shocks and a front bar do the cars need anything else to be competitive locally.
Thanks
Eric P.
Those GT's were actually Shelby GT's or option package conversion equivalents. The P3 car actually was fastest in class on the West course. For local and for national competitiveness the off the shelf Koni Sports are what people are using. (aka what Art has that he beats me with even though I have them also in my 2012). The Mustangs run the stock front bar with a Strano adjustable rear in many cases but apparently all the fast guys run the middle position which is the same rate as stock.
The standard GT's of those model years have not done well at Nationals due to increased ride height and softer springs compared to the SGT. Plus in some situations the rev limiter in the standard GT's is "not autocross friendly" like the SGT's and my 2012 GT. I guess a newer model year to be sure that 18x8.5 inch wheels were an option.
For those years I think he should make sure it has the 3:55 (or 3.54?) rear end. For newer (2011 plus) ones the 3:31 (gear boxes are different and so are rev limits but those are the best ratios afaik for both versions. Newer cars look for the "Brembo Brake version because it also has 19x9 inch wheels versus 19x8 or 19x8.5 for the standard GT (like mine). However many of the Brembo brake cars came with 3.73 rear ends. However, if the car has the "track pack" or whatever it was called in 2013 and maybe 2014 the diff will be a torsen with 3.73's versus the normal clutch type that the rest of us have.
FYI Brian Burdette the 5th place car/driver in a 2012 GT was the F Stock winner in 2013. The 7th place car, John Kanalas, is a 2013 GT with the 3.73/torsen diff.
My understanding is that camber adjustment is actually with standard bolts but with slotting of one of the strut mounting holes (lower as I recall on mine). Stay with the stock bolts. In fact getting the current version of the stock bolts might be a good idea. Then blue loctite the bolts and torque them VERY tight (Sam Strano will tell him exactly what is needed). Then check periodically. Otherwise the strut starts moving and ultimately the upright breaks. Max camber is about -1.7 or maybe a bit more in the earlier cars based on what the Ford manual indicates. Again, Sam can explain.
FYI if I get a new Mustang next Spring I'll have at least the adjustable rear bar and a set of 18x8.5 wheels for sale. Maybe also an extra set of stock 18x8's. Probably won't bother removing the Koni's unless really motivated to do the work or watch someone else do it.
Dick
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Guess one decent aspect of this E90 M3 is that it's factory warranty runs out in 3 weeks (4 years), and it has never had a warranty claim. I think this is the only car I've owned that's been perfect since new (so far, 28k miles). I had it in Leith last week for scheduled maintenance (that's *free* too during warranty period), and it included: spark plugs, oil/filer, tranny fluid replace, diff fluid replace, brake fluid replace, cabin microfilters and wiper blades...so that part was a bit "ultimate" Les. 
I have heard that these cars have been some of the most reliable in recent BMW history.