FML SMH OMFG WTF......koni strikes again

Donnie Barnes · **Posted:** Wed Mar 16, 2011 12:25 pm

We got the eye you need, so we're up for it. Email me at djb@donniebarnes.com to set something up. Needs to be during a weekday, and this coming Monday is bad. You'll be coming out to the Haw River between CH and Pittsboro (can email a Google Map...I'd post it, but then Vincent would try to show up and "socialize" with me *cough*). If you absolutely can't do a weekday let me know and I'll see what I can do otherwise...

--Donnie

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Wed Mar 16, 2011 12:32 pm

Donnie Barnes wrote:

(can email a Google Map...I'd post it, but then Vincent would try to show up and "socialize" with me *cough*).

If it's too far for you to drive here, it's too far for me to drive there. Don't worry you're safe Donnie. :refuse:

JamesShort · **Posted:** Fri Mar 18, 2011 5:15 pm

New Koni's on, and the noise is gone. Now all I need to do is get the registration for the new car in the mail so I can start my warranty claim with Koni

.

FYI, the dyno plots were spot on for both of the 'bad' ones so it's something that wasn't exposed by the low rates of acceleration that a dyno uses. The bumps you hit on the road cause the damper to go from 0 to 10+ in/s in milliseconds....not 5 seconds

.

While dicking around on the Civic, I've found that despite being 300 lbs lighter than the WRX, it has similar rear motion ratio, stiffer rear springs, and a RSB that's comparable in diameter and geometry to the WRX. Couple this with a TBD front diff, I can imagine that this car will rotate a lot better than the WRX.

JasonWatts · **Posted:** Fri Mar 18, 2011 5:21 pm

JamesShort wrote:

New Koni's on, and the noise is gone. Now all I need to do is get the registration for the new car in the mail so I can start my warranty claim with Koni

.

FYI, the dyno plots were spot on for both of the 'bad' ones so it's something that wasn't exposed by the low rates of acceleration that a dyno uses. The bumps you hit on the road cause the damper to go from 0 to 10+ in/s in milliseconds....not 5 seconds

.

While dicking around on the Civic, I've found that despite being 300 lbs lighter than the WRX, it has similar rear motion ratio, stiffer rear springs, and a RSB that's comparable in diameter and geometry to the WRX. Couple this with a TBD front diff, I can imagine that this car will rotate a lot better than the WRX.

the 2 lessons I have learned from James

1) Dont buy Koni

2) if I do buy Koni, make sure I buy two sets so I can send the non working set back and not have to wait.

ok, I am going to go put on my flaim suit now... and I hope for the best for you and this set james

JamesShort · **Posted:** Fri Mar 18, 2011 5:27 pm

JasonWatts wrote:

JamesShort wrote:

New Koni's on, and the noise is gone. Now all I need to do is get the registration for the new car in the mail so I can start my warranty claim with Koni

.

FYI, the dyno plots were spot on for both of the 'bad' ones so it's something that wasn't exposed by the low rates of acceleration that a dyno uses. The bumps you hit on the road cause the damper to go from 0 to 10+ in/s in milliseconds....not 5 seconds

.

While dicking around on the Civic, I've found that despite being 300 lbs lighter than the WRX, it has similar rear motion ratio, stiffer rear springs, and a RSB that's comparable in diameter and geometry to the WRX. Couple this with a TBD front diff, I can imagine that this car will rotate a lot better than the WRX.

the 2 lessons I have learned from James

1) Dont buy Koni

2) if I do buy Koni, make sure I buy two sets so I can send the non working set back and not have to wait.

ok, I am going to go put on my flaim suit now... and I hope for the best for you and this set james

No flame suit necessary, that's a damn fine idea!

Jason Mauldin · **Posted:** Fri Mar 18, 2011 5:45 pm

James, I'm sorry about the luck that you're having with these KONIs. I just want to point out a possible solution for you, when the KONIs fail again errrr, I mean "IF" they fail again. I suspect this solution would be faster then waiting for KONI to repair the shocks.

Since Donnie had the proper adapters to bolt your shocks to his dyno, I assume that there is nothing special about the shock mounts that are on your car.

If you take a few measurements on your car and then give those measurements to the correct tech guy at Bilstein, they will probably be able to find a shock that is the correct length for you. Then valve it for your car and help you find the right shock ends that are needed to mount to your car.

Custom shocks are relatively easy to put together.

JamesShort · **Posted:** Fri Mar 18, 2011 5:50 pm

Jason Mauldin wrote:

James, I'm sorry about the luck that you're having with these KONIs. I just want to point out a possible solution for you, when the KONIs fail again errrr, I mean "IF" they fail again. I suspect this solution would be faster then waiting for KONI to repair the shocks.

Since Donnie had the proper adapters to bolt your shocks to his dyno, I assume that there is nothing special about the shock mounts that are on your car.

If you take a few measurements on your car and then give those measurements to the correct tech guy at Bilstein, they will probably be able to find a shock that is the correct length for you. Then valve it for your car and help you find the right shock ends that are needed to mount to your car.

Custom shocks are relatively easy to put together.

That'd probably work for the rear. Fronts are inserts, and while I know Bilstein does some inserts, it gets a bit hairy with dimensions etc with them I'm sure.

Any contacts with Bilstein you'd recommend I get in touch with if I want to go this route?

Thanks.

TomFreeman · **Posted:** Fri Mar 18, 2011 5:51 pm

Jason Mauldin wrote:

James, I'm sorry about the luck that you're having with these KONIs. I just want to point out a possible solution for you, when the KONIs fail again errrr, I mean "IF" they fail again. I suspect this solution would be faster then waiting for KONI to repair the shocks.

Since Donnie had the proper adapters to bolt your shocks to his dyno, I assume that there is nothing special about the shock mounts that are on your car.

If you take a few measurements on your car and then give those measurements to the correct tech guy at Bilstein, they will probably be able to find a shock that is the correct length for you. Then valve it for your car and help you find the right shock ends that are needed to mount to your car.

Custom shocks are relatively easy to put together.

As a Bilstein fanboi, but not a Koni hater, you'd be surprised what oddball hybrid Bilstein solutions have been hacked together around here.
- On my (to be sold soon) Probe, custom housings using Bilstein A2 VW strut inserts
- Ryan's former 240SX - Mitsu 3KGT struts adapted for the 240
- A friend's Focus - A2 VW strut inserts in the Focus housing (front), BMW e30 shocks in the rear.

The Bilstein kool-aid is good.

Steven Carter · **Posted:** Fri Mar 18, 2011 5:54 pm

JamesShort wrote:

Any contacts with Bilstein you'd recommend I get in touch with if I want to go this route?

Thanks.

Myles?

...sorry...couldn't resist!

JamesMilko · **Posted:** Fri Mar 18, 2011 6:19 pm

Keep in mind Bilstein is OE for a lot of vehicles. They have a lot of fitments and the guts of most of their shocks are the same.

Jason Mauldin · **Posted:** Fri Mar 18, 2011 8:21 pm

The guy I talked with was in the valving department for OE applications, so he might not be much help to you. I guess it wouldn't hurt to call him. His name was Jack French, and I got a hold of him by calling the California facility

I think you should call the East Coast Division, as they are more setup to work with custom applications. Maybe Ryan will remember the guy that he talked to at that location. I think it was Chris or Keith, but I'm not certain.

Struts aren't as difficult as you would think they would be. Definitely more difficult then putting together a set of shocks, but not overly difficult.

If you still have your front OE struts, measure the extended length, the compressed length and the diameter of the upper strut mount hole. Then cut the end off of the top of the strut housing and pull out the internals. Once that's done, measure the I.D. of the tube and go from there.

Ryan Holton · **Posted:** Fri Mar 18, 2011 10:00 pm

http://driftninjaz.com/blogthis/?p=26

My Odyssey of adapting 3000GT front and rear struts/shocks to a 96 240sx. Actually a bunch of it is missing for some reason

Honestly, it wasn't THAT hard to do (who didn't see that coming). Those 3000GT/Stealth front struts are REALLY awesome units. VERY, VERY short and the biggest shaft that Bilstein has in the HD line. I made a complete cold call to Bilstein in Mooresville and within a few minutes was told anything I wanted to know about their shocks.

I was very happy with the shocks, that said I have generally had good luck with Koni on Honda applications

Aaron Buckley · **Posted:** Fri Mar 18, 2011 11:03 pm

While I think Bilstein makes a great product, when it comes to autocrossing, you rarely hear about anyone in stock class running bilsteins and are at the pointy end of the field. Adjustability is king when it comes to the many different sites you'll find. - AB

JamesMilko · **Posted:** Sat Mar 19, 2011 11:47 am

Bilsteins can be made SA or DA by revalvers. I also know for sure 08 and 09 Estock were won by Bilstein cars.

Jason Mauldin · **Posted:** Sat Mar 19, 2011 12:08 pm

Aaron Buckley wrote:

Adjustability is king when it comes to the many different sites you'll find. - AB

Almost all Bilsteins are adjustable. Just not with a knob. :lol:

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