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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:31 pm 
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Maria Winslow wrote:
How about the best thing to remove ground-in sunscreen from pebbly vinyl?
Haha, the part of my driver door that my forearm sits on is leather-ish (not sure if real or syn) and I have that same problem A damp towel doesn't seem to get the sunscreen/sweat off :).

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 3:10 pm 
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I got a SUX2000!
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Maria Winslow wrote:
How about the best thing to remove ground-in sunscreen from pebbly vinyl?


I know this one very well, because either Chris or Eric puts sunscreen on by the spoonful. :lol: Pep Boys carries a line called "Surf City Garage" that's excellent. They have a product called "Dash Away" that serves this exact purpose. It claims you can use it on any interior surface, though I haven't used it on anything but plastic and vinyl. Works great, and it even smells good. Can't find that? Look for Meguiar's "Quik Interior Detailer." I've even seen this one at Walmart.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 5:21 pm 
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JamesShort wrote:
Wow, 3 responses and no "Don't hit cones!" comments.

A miata.net poster said rainx works....something about needing a polar cleaner to clean a polar compound. Has anyone tried that?


I got in late, that would have been my response. So, my new response is that Karl really needs to now start charging for all this advice since it is his line of business. (Unless of course he is now working for NetAP)

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 8:27 pm 
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Stephen Westerfield wrote:
Matt McGrain wrote:
Image

Buy a gallon of this and call it a day! Just wet car, spray, and wipe away.


How does that stuff work on plastic? I've got a bunch of "tire worm" marks on my rear bumper cover that regular soap and water just won't touch. They are a little more stubborn than a cone mark it seems. Also, any idea on cost?


It been fine so far for me on the R, M3 and now the Civic. It's not real harsh like an uncut green cleaner that will oxidize engine parts if left on too long (ask me how I know :oops: ) It's made for the body panels and especially the front bumper cover from alll the squished bugs.

I'm serious, Bug Off rocks and you don't even have to wipe the bug guts with a lot of scrubbing like the chain store bug sprays.

Once thing about the wheel cleaner: it's really strong so be careful getting it on the brake components. I can't imagine it's too good for the rubber components like the lines and seals.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 10:03 pm 
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I got a SUX2000!
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Bug Off does indeed rock. I only left it off my list because Matt had already mentioned it.

There is a very specific type of vehicle on which it should be avoided. I don't have a bottle of it with a label on it at the moment, but I believe they describe it as "gray plastic Ford grills." I don't know what happens, but whatever it is, they put it on the label.

Matt McGrain wrote:
It been fine so far for me on the R, M3 and now the Civic. It's not real harsh like an uncut green cleaner that will oxidize engine parts if left on too long (ask me how I know :oops: ) It's made for the body panels and especially the front bumper cover from alll the squished bugs.

I'm serious, Bug Off rocks and you don't even have to wipe the bug guts with a lot of scrubbing like the chain store bug sprays.

Once thing about the wheel cleaner: it's really strong so be careful getting it on the brake components. I can't imagine it's too good for the rubber components like the lines and seals.


Matt, if you haven't already done so, get one of those yellow sponge looking things that they sell. It's like an extremely coarse sponge. So long as you keep the surface wet, you won't scratch anything. With one of those and some Bug Off, you're unstoppable.

I actually tell people to avoid Wheel Brite altogether unless they're very experienced. Super Green Stuff (the APC I mentioned) is often all you need to clean up a set of wheels. Phil (one of the owners) has told me about customers of his using Wheel Brite full strength, because "if 4:1 is good, full strength must be better." No. Cut it with water. :)

I know some folks go straight to the strongest stuff on the shelf, but that's the wrong methodology. Always try whatever is the least aggressive method that you think will work.

(The above comments are general, and not directed at you, Matt, I know you know what you're doing)

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 10:05 pm 
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for some reason I read the title as Clone marks...

was trying to figure out what that was.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 9:51 pm 
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Free plug I guess, but here's a little before & after with the Kick Acid. Not too shabby I guess. This was a few years ago not that it matters and never mind the terribly faded centercaps.

I miss changing and lugging 15" wheels. :wink:

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 10:28 pm 
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One clarification I just noticed I need to make. Looks like Matt was talking about Kick Acid as his wheel cleaner of choice. It's excellent. The one I was referring to is called Wheel Brite. I was serious when I said to not breathe this stuff in, because it's very, very strong. If Wheel Brite won't get something off of a wheel, it's very likely on there for good.

You guys are more than welcome to ask me questions about detailing stuff, BTW. I start at NetApp on the 23rd. :lol: Although, in truth, I was never much of one for keeping detailing secrets anyway.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 10:47 pm 
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I may need some of that stuff.....I have buggers of molten brake compound in a few places on my wheels.....probably when the axxis ultimates where literally smoking at the evo school :).

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 12:28 am 
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JamesShort wrote:
I may need some of that stuff.....I have buggers of molten brake compound in a few places on my wheels.....probably when the axxis ultimates where literally smoking at the evo school :).


Remind me on Tuesday, and I'll bring you some Wheel Brite. Bring a container of some sort - a chemical resistant spray bottle, or even a glass jar. It'll need to be resistant to acid.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 10:02 am 
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Looks like Wheel Brite contains hydrofluoric acid. I wouldn't suggest glass as it is dissolved by hydrofluoric.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 10:59 am 
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I'm not going to claim to be as savvy as karl, but I've used a clay bar on a wheel before and it took d*mn near everything off of it. It took a bit of elbow grease though.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 2:54 pm 
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JamesShort wrote:
.....probably when the axxis ultimates where literally smoking at the evo school :).


My Ultimates are on the way for the Civic. I don't know why I'm excited to go back to grippy pads although I don't know if it will translate to faster times.

Karl's right about the acid- it's a last resort for pitting and stuff that's really nasty. A note about the wheel cleaner too: sometimes it's not even necessary if the dust hasn't been on there too long. I used the dirty soapy water after cleaning everything but the wheels on Therese's IS with Ultimate pads. The dust comes right off.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 2:59 pm 
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Matt McGrain wrote:
JamesShort wrote:
.....probably when the axxis ultimates where literally smoking at the evo school :).


My Ultimates are on the way for the Civic. I don't know why I'm excited to go back to grippy pads although I don't know if it will translate to faster times.

Karl's right about the acid- it's a last resort for pitting and stuff that's really nasty. A note about the wheel cleaner too: sometimes it's not even necessary if the dust hasn't been on there too long. I used the dirty soapy water after cleaning everything but the wheels on Therese's IS with Ultimate pads. The dust comes right off.
Yes, it's be 3-4 months since I cleaned my wheels, so it was probably a combo of old dust and the fact that the brakes got really hot at that school, but yes, fresh dust can sometime come off with just soapy water.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 10:39 pm 
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I got a SUX2000!
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Matt McGrain wrote:
My Ultimates are on the way for the Civic. I don't know why I'm excited to go back to grippy pads although I don't know if it will translate to faster times.

Karl's right about the acid- it's a last resort for pitting and stuff that's really nasty. A note about the wheel cleaner too: sometimes it's not even necessary if the dust hasn't been on there too long. I used the dirty soapy water after cleaning everything but the wheels on Therese's IS with Ultimate pads. The dust comes right off.


Matt, as well as you're driving that Civic, I'm not sure why you're screwing around with the setup at all. You and Keith Vail need to start a club. :lol:

Anyway, what Matt said is true. You often don't "need" a wheel cleaner. A basic all purpose cleaner (APC) like the Majestic "Super Green Stuff" I mentioned above is often all you need, and you can use it on lots of other things, too.

I think people tend to buy wheel cleaners because they think they won't have to agitate the wheels when using them. This is false. I liken cleaning wheels to cleaning a skillet. Sure, you could run some water and Dawn around in a skillet, and it would be cleaner than it was when you started, but it'll still be dirty. You need to use a dish brush or a sponge or whatever. Same applies for wheels. So, if you're going to be using a brush anyway, try a cleaning product that's not so aggressive. You'll probably be surprised.

As for all purpose cleaners - I don't recommend Simple Green. I've seen it oxidize fasteners way too many times. If you see fasteners that look like they've whitened, a cleaning product is often to blame, and Simple Green original formula is famous for doing this.

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