Kraftsman trailers

TimPeele · **Joined:** Thu Aug 28, 2003 7:29 pm **Posts:** 48

Hey guys,

I've been considering buying a trailer. Are there any options I should get other than smooth ramps and a spare tire and mount?

Thanks,
Tim

Diane Hall · **Posted:** Mon Apr 04, 2005 3:23 pm

I got a removable driver's side fender. Wish I had done the passenger side too. I didn't get smooth ramps, and haven't had any trouble with them.

Mitchell Moore · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 3:11 pm **Posts:** 197

I got the second brake for $100. May not be needed but I wanted the additional safety.

Diane Hall wrote:

I got a removable driver's side fender. Wish I had done the passenger side too. I didn't get smooth ramps, and haven't had any trouble with them.

Just curious but why do you want a removable passenger fender.

Aaron Buckley · **Posted:** Mon Apr 04, 2005 5:48 pm

Mitchell Moore wrote:

Just curious but why do you want a removable passenger fender.

If you have a lowered car and want to open a door when it's on the trailer, this is almost a necessity. Picture trying to 'Dukes of Hazard' out of a Miata once you load it up

This makes life a lot easier. - AB

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Mon Apr 04, 2005 7:06 pm

What are doors?

Diane Hall · **Posted:** Mon Apr 04, 2005 10:20 pm

Aaron Buckley wrote:

Mitchell Moore wrote:

Just curious but why do you want a removable passenger fender.

If you have a lowered car and want to open a door when it's on the trailer, this is almost a necessity. Picture trying to 'Dukes of Hazard' out of a Miata once you load it up

This makes life a lot easier. - AB

The reason I'd like to have a removable passenger fender is that I like to put the gas cans in the passenger floorboard of the racecar (so the Tahoe doesn't stink like gas). As it is now, I have to either leave the passenger window down, or fill the cans before putting the car of the trailer, then stop at the gas station again to fill the race car. It's a convienence thing I wish I'd thought about.

MikeWhitney · **Joined:** Wed Aug 20, 2003 9:15 pm **Posts:** 4724

I got stake pockets at about $5 each. Even if you never use them for trailer sides, they are nice occasionally for bungeeing canopies, etc.

When they build yours, INSIST that they use a torque wrench on the lugnuts. Not sure if that's still a problem, but it was on mine.

Also, insist that they protect the wiring at any places where a wire touches a cut steel edge. I had one wire chafe through.

I had the spare tire mounted underneath the deck. Not too bad to remove, but a PITA to put back up. If I were to do it again, I would probably figure out a way to use one of the van spare tire crank-mounts.

Other than the 2 niggles, I've been very, very happy with my Kraftsman, especially considering the price. I also have the "not smooth" ramps and have no problems with them. They aren't bumpy at all to drive over.

Oh and have Schimmel build you a tire rack. Bolt it on so you can take it with you someday

TimPeele · **Joined:** Thu Aug 28, 2003 7:29 pm **Posts:** 48

Thanks guys! All great advice. What does Schimmel charge for a tire rack?

Tim

Mitchell Moore · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 3:11 pm **Posts:** 197

I believe they mounted my tire at no additional cost just behind the tongue of the trailer.

Mitchell Moore · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 3:11 pm **Posts:** 197

Diane have you considered bolting some treated 2x10's to the trailer where the tires of the car sit to lift it up. I have thought about doing that even though I have the removable fender. I really don't like the extra time it takes to bolt and unbolt that fender.

Diane Hall · **Posted:** Tue Apr 05, 2005 1:24 pm

2x10s is a thought, but I think it would take more of a rise than that for the SM car. I'll check though next time I load it up. Might just work. Thanks for the idea.

Marvin McBride · **Posted:** Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:19 pm

The guys at SouthAg in Wendell made my trailer for me. I went with the removable driver's side fender, as well. I have dual drop axles, really like the lower center of gravity. Also got dual axle electric brakes. (The mechanical surge brakes are probably better, but more expensive.) They also build 8 ft ramps fo me (rather than the usual 4-5 ft) - I can get my Miata with a chin spoiler on it without fooling with boards, etc. I wanted an open deck to cut the weight - they'll do open deck or solid deck.

MikeWhitney · **Joined:** Wed Aug 20, 2003 9:15 pm **Posts:** 4724

Marvin McBride wrote:

The guys at SouthAg in Wendell made my trailer for me. I went with the removable driver's side fender, as well. I have dual drop axles, really like the lower center of gravity. Also got dual axle electric brakes. (The mechanical surge brakes are probably better, but more expensive.) They also build 8 ft ramps fo me (rather than the usual 4-5 ft) - I can get my Miata with a chin spoiler on it without fooling with boards, etc. I wanted an open deck to cut the weight - they'll do open deck or solid deck.

How much did that run you?

Marvin McBride · **Posted:** Wed Apr 06, 2005 6:01 pm

Can't seem to place my hands on the invoice right now, but IIRC, it was about $1800.00. In addition to the "mods" I mentioned, they also moved a rear support brace forward, in order to not hit the chin spoiler, and extended the decking inward about 6" - the Miata being narrower than a "normal" car. The guy worked with me to essentially build a trailer based on their standard spec that would work for the Miata, but also be able to handle anything else.

Brad Mackey · **Posted:** Thu Apr 07, 2005 9:38 am

I followed Whitney and Phil Wehman to Kraftsman.
Options I got:

1.) 4" dropped axles---Still thinking about this. Definitely clearance issues! However, eliminates the need for additional ramp extensions. My lowered Miata has about 1-1/2" to spare on the standard ramps.

2.) Removable driver's side fender---Absolute MUST. No brainer.

3.) Spare mounted horizontally in the front---May want to change the location to accomodate one of those "Vee"-shaped toolboxes like Jason Panciera has on his trailer.

4.) Stake pockets---Hey, for $100, the convenience is worth it. I can deliver enough pine straw for the whole neighborhood! Ditto Mike's comment on bungee attachment points.

5.) Brakes---the standard electric brakes work just fine with my 2,300-lb Miata.

6.) Smooth ramps (using expanded metal)---Not sure I'd do that again, after watching others load up with standard ramps. Also adds about 20-25 lbs per ramp in weight. That's considerable when you're wrastlin' the ramps out of the trailer! They were +$100.

7.) Break-away Kit--I think it's mandatory in NC. I guess it will work, but if the trailer ever breaks loose, you're in for some serious problems anyway.

8.) Suggest you have them weld a 4" X 6" X 3/16" thick plate to the end of their standard crank-down stand. I'm gonna have Robert at R&J add one for me. Eliminates having to carry pieces of 2 X, which tend to split.

9.) One thing that I failed to notice, and am PISSED about: Kraftsman welds the tie-down rings in place with the load-bearing direction parallel to the centerline of the trailer. As we all know, the tie-down straps must attach to the racecar at an angle to the axis of the trailer. It's a bad design, and possibly not safe. Suggest you have them weld the tie-down rings at a 35-45 degree angle inwards toward the centerline of the trailer for better force vectors on the ring. I'm considering cutting mine out and replacing with swivel rings from ADB or Jergens.

Total including the digital brake controller installed by Kraftsman, Ball, Hitch Bar: $2,215. NC Tax is 3% when you register it.

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